Formulations for Acne, Clogged Pores, and Dark Spots

Question

Based on my need for a cream formula to address oily skin, acne (clogged and inflamed), and dark spots, the staff recommended two separate formulas. Could you please detail these two recommended formulas? Formula 1: For dissolving clogged pores (to be used nightly before other products). Encapsulated Salicylic Acid (BHA) Timed Release Powder: 4% Light Cream Maker: 1% Mild Preserved Eco (Preservative): 1% Water: 94% Formula 2: For skin nourishment, oil control, strengthening skin, and improving tolerance to Salicylic Acid that may cause irritation (to be used morning and night). Light Cream Maker: 1% Mild Preserved Eco (Preservative): 1% Licochalcone A: 1% Centella Asiatica extract: 1% Willow Bark Extract: 3% Safe-B3: 5% Yeast Radiance: 3% GlucoBright: 4% AcneBee: 1% Water: Remaining amount to 100%

MySkinRecipes Expert · Accepted Answer

Regarding your proposed cream formula for strengthening skin and reducing acne and dark spots:

Your formula includes several excellent ingredients for your goals and skin type (oily, acne-prone with dark spots):

Skin Strengthening: Niacinamide (Safe-B3), Myristyl Nicotinate, Centella Asiatica, Trehalose, WaterLock are beneficial for the skin barrier.
Acne Reduction: Willow Bark Extract provides natural Salicylic Acid (BHA) for exfoliation. Niacinamide helps with oil control and inflammation. Licochalcone A, Centella Asiatica, Quercetin, and EGCG offer anti-inflammatory benefits.
Dark Spot Reduction: Myristyl Nicotinate, Niacinamide, Yeast Radiance, and GlucoBright are effective for reducing hyperpigmentation.

However, combining this many active ingredients in a single formula could potentially increase the risk of irritation, especially for sensitive or acne-inflamed skin. Specifically, having both Myristyl Nicotinate (5%) and Niacinamide (5%) results in a high total concentration of Vitamin B3 derivatives, which might cause flushing or redness in some individuals. While Willow Bark Extract contains BHA, a dedicated BHA product might be more effective for dissolving stubborn clogged pores.

The staff's suggestion to divide the treatment into two formulas is a well-considered approach for your specific concerns:

Formula for dissolving clogged pores (used before bed): This formula focuses on a higher concentration of BHA (Encapsulated Salicylic Acid 4%), which is more targeted and effective for addressing your primary concern of clogged pores.
Formula for daily nourishment and strengthening (used morning and night): This formula includes key ingredients from your list that are excellent for oily, acne-prone skin and dark spots, such as Niacinamide (Safe-B3), Licochalcone A, Centella Asiatica, Willow Bark Extract, Yeast Radiance, and GlucoBright. It also adds AcneBee, an ingredient specifically for acne. By removing some ingredients like Myristyl Nicotinate (reducing potential irritation) and some of the heavier moisturizers/antioxidants, the staff's formula 2 is simplified and potentially less likely to cause irritation while still providing significant benefits for strengthening the skin barrier, controlling oil, and reducing dark spots.

Conclusion:

While your original formula contains many beneficial ingredients, the staff's recommendation of using two separate, targeted formulas is likely a more effective and potentially less irritating strategy for managing your oily, acne-prone skin with clogged pores and dark spots. The first formula provides a focused treatment for clogged pores, and the second provides comprehensive daily care addressing strengthening, oil control, and dark spots with a carefully selected combination of actives.