Gel Cleanser Formulation Review and Adjustment

ถามโดย: pu_narakja เมื่อ: May 28, 2014 ประเภทผลิตภัณฑ์: เครื่องสำอาง

คำถาม

I have a gel cleanser formula and need assistance with several aspects. Based on the formula, I would like to know:

  • Is this formula effective for thorough cleansing, especially for makeup removal?
  • Does the formula contain a foaming agent, and will it produce enough foam? (I am using Cocamidopropyl Betaine).
  • How do I measure the powder gel maker (Pro Polymer) to use it at 2% in the formula?
  • What is the effectiveness of Tea Tree Oil at 2% when using the Water Soluble version?
  • Is Phenoxyethanol at 1% sufficient for preservation?
  • Is using Pro Polymer at 2% the appropriate amount for a gel texture, considering other ingredients like electrolytes (Sodium PCA, Sodium Lactate, Zinc PCA)?

คำตอบ

Review and Potential Adjustments

This gel cleanser formula contains a good blend of moisturizing ingredients, including Glycerin, Propylene Glycol, Sodium PCA, Sodium Lactate, and Urea, which are components of the skin's Natural Moisturizing Factor (NMF). WaterLock (Polyquaternium-51) also contributes to skin hydration and can help reduce irritation from surfactants.

The primary cleansing agent is Cocamidopropyl Betaine. This is a mild amphoteric surfactant that provides a fine, smooth foam. As noted in the previous reply, this formula might not be sufficient to thoroughly remove heavy makeup due to the mild surfactant system and lack of specific makeup dissolving agents.

  • To improve cleansing power for makeup: You might consider adding a small amount of a more effective surfactant or a gentle oil-based component, but this would change the nature of the formula and might require adjustments to the thickener.
  • Foam: The current formula will likely produce low foam. If more foam is desired, adding a foam booster like Creamy Foamer (Sodium Methyl Cocoyl Taurate) would be effective.
  • Gel Texture: Using Pro Polymer (Gel Maker) at 2% is a relatively high concentration, especially with the presence of electrolytes like Sodium PCA, Sodium Lactate, and Zinc PCA. According to the product description, electrolytes can reduce the viscosity provided by Pro Polymer, and a higher amount might be needed to achieve the desired thickness. However, 2% could potentially result in a very thick, pudding-like texture. You may need to adjust the percentage of Pro Polymer based on your desired gel consistency, potentially starting lower (e.g., 0.8-1%) and increasing if needed, keeping in mind the mixing instructions for electrolytes.
  • Tea Tree Oil: The Water Soluble Tea Tree Oil product contains 20% Tea Tree Oil. At 2% usage in the formula, the actual concentration of Tea Tree Oil is only 0.04%. If you are aiming for significant antibacterial benefits from Tea Tree Oil, you would need to use a higher percentage of the water-soluble version or consider an alternative ingredient.
  • Preservation: Phenoxyethanol at 1% is a standard preservative level, but the description notes it is primarily effective against bacteria and less so against fungi. Depending on your manufacturing process and packaging, you may need to consider adding a co-preservative or using a broad-spectrum preservative blend to ensure adequate protection against microbial growth.

Ultimately, whether you need to add or remove anything depends on the specific performance and texture you want for the cleanser.

Foaming Agent

Yes, the formula contains Cocamidopropyl Betaine, which is a surfactant and acts as a foaming agent. It provides a fine, smooth foam. However, as mentioned earlier and in the previous reply, it may not produce a large amount of foam compared to formulas using stronger foaming surfactants. If you want more abundant foam, adding Creamy Foamer (Sodium Methyl Cocoyl Taurate) is a good option.

Measuring Powder Gel Maker

When formulating by percentage, you measure powder ingredients by weight. To get 2% of Pro Polymer (Gel Maker) in your formula, you would weigh the Pro Polymer powder. For example, if you are making a total batch of 100 grams of the gel cleanser, you would weigh out 2 grams of Pro Polymer. If you are making 500 grams, you would weigh out 10 grams (500 grams * 0.02 = 10 grams).

The product description for Pro Polymer also provides specific mixing instructions for incorporating the powder, especially when humectants like Glycerin or Propylene Glycol are present. It suggests mixing the Pro Polymer with the Glycerin or Propylene Glycol first before adding to the water phase, or slowly sprinkling the powder into the water while stirring continuously and allowing time for it to hydrate fully.

ผลิตภัณฑ์ที่เกี่ยวข้องที่กล่าวถึง

Propylene Glycol (USP)
Propylene Glycol (USP)
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Glycerin (USP/Food Grade)
Glycerin (USP/Food Grade)
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Sodium Lactate (60% Liquid, Natural)
Sodium Lactate (60% Liquid, Natural)
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Urea (High Purity, Cosmetics, Powder)
Urea (High Purity, Cosmetics, Powder)
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Phenoxyethanol (Extra Pure)
Phenoxyethanol (Extra Pure)
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Sodium PCA 50%
Sodium PCA 50%
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Cocamidopropyl Betaine
Cocamidopropyl Betaine
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Tea Tree Oil (Water Soluble)
Tea Tree Oil (Water Soluble)
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Pro Polymer™ (Gel Maker)
Pro Polymer™ (Gel Maker)
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Zinc PCA
Zinc PCA
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WaterLock™ (Polyquaternium-51)
WaterLock™ (Polyquaternium-51)
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