Gel Formula Analysis for Whitening and Sun Protection

Asked by: kranrichy On: February 13, 2020 Product Type: Cosmetics Answered

Question

Could you please analyze the following formula and provide suggestions on which ingredients to add or reduce to achieve a formula that results in white and clear skin?

If I want to add sun protection, which ingredient(s) should I add and use at what percentage?

Here is the formula:

  • Water 82.7%
  • Carbomer 940 0.5%
  • Triethanolamine 0.5%
  • Sweet Almond Oil 2%
  • Glycerin 5%
  • GlucoBright 2%
  • Vit B3 2%
  • Double Hyaluron Liquid 0.1%
  • Allantoin 0.2%
  • Mild Preserve Eco 1%
  • Fragrance 2%
  • Turmeric Extract (extracted using Propylene Glycol) 2%

Answer

Formula Analysis and Suggestions

Your current formula is a gel base containing several ingredients known for their moisturizing, soothing, and whitening properties.

Current Formula Ingredients:

Analysis and Suggestions for Whitening/Brightening:

Your formula already includes good whitening ingredients like GlucoBright (Acetyl Glucosamine), Vit B3 (Niacinamide), and Turmeric Extract (WhiteCumin™).

  • GlucoBright (Acetyl Glucosamine) and Vit B3 (Niacinamide) work synergistically to reduce dark spots and brighten skin. The product descriptions suggest that using GlucoBright at 4% in combination with Vit B3 at 2-4% (or even up to 5% for Safe-B3™) provides optimal results. Your current formula uses both at 2%.

    • Suggestion: Increase the percentage of GlucoBright to 4% and Vit B3 (Safe-B3™) to 4-5% to enhance their combined whitening effect.
  • Turmeric Extract (WhiteCumin™) is also a good whitening and antioxidant ingredient. The product description recommends a usage rate of 0.1-1.0%, with 0.2% being ideal. Your formula uses 2%, which is higher than the recommended maximum.

    • Suggestion: Reduce the percentage of Turmeric Extract (WhiteCumin™) to the recommended range, perhaps 0.5-1.0%. Using more than the recommended amount may not provide additional benefits and could potentially affect the formula's stability or aesthetics.
  • To further boost the whitening effect, you could add another potent whitening ingredient. Alpha Arbutin is highly effective and safe. The product description for Alpha Arbutin (Switzerland) recommends a usage rate of 0.2-2%, with 2% recommended for skin brightening.

Analysis and Suggestions for Hydration and Texture:

  • Your formula includes Sweet Almond Oil, Glycerin, and Double Hyaluron Liquid for hydration.
  • The percentage of Double Hyaluron Liquid is quite low (0.1%). The product description suggests 3-5% for normal skin hydration.

    • Suggestion: Increase the percentage of Double Hyaluron Liquid to 3-5% for significantly improved hydration and skin feel.
  • The percentage of Fragrance (2%) is relatively high for a facial product and might cause irritation for sensitive skin.

    • Suggestion: Reduce the Fragrance percentage to 0.1-0.5%.

Adding Sun Protection (SPF):

Adding sun protection requires incorporating UV filters into your formula. The most common types are physical filters like Zinc Oxide and Titanium Dioxide.

  • You can use water-dispersible forms like Zinc Oxide 40nm Dispersion (Water Base) and Titanium Dioxide Transparent (15nm, Water-Dispersion), which are suitable for a water-based gel.
  • To achieve a meaningful SPF (e.g., SPF 30 or higher), you will need to include a significant percentage of these filters. The product descriptions indicate usage rates up to 50% for these dispersions.
  • Adding high percentages of physical UV filters will significantly change the texture and appearance of your gel, potentially making it thicker and leaving a white cast (although the transparent/nano dispersions help minimize this).

  • Suggestion: If you want to add sun protection to this gel formula, you would need to incorporate Zinc Oxide 40nm Dispersion (Water Base) and/or Titanium Dioxide Transparent (15nm, Water-Dispersion) at a total percentage of 15-30% or more, depending on the desired SPF. Be aware this will impact the gel's texture and appearance. Alternatively, consider creating a separate sunscreen product or a day cream with SPF.

Summary of Suggested Modifications:

To enhance whitening/brightening and improve hydration:

To add sun protection:

Remember to adjust the percentage of Water accordingly when adding or increasing other ingredients to ensure the total formula adds up to 100%. Always perform stability and efficacy testing on your final formula.