Gel Formula Analysis for Whitening and Sun Protection

Asked by: kranrichy On: February 13, 2020 Product Type: Cosmetics

Question

Could you please analyze the following formula and provide suggestions on which ingredients to add or reduce to achieve a formula that results in white and clear skin?

If I want to add sun protection, which ingredient(s) should I add and use at what percentage?

Here is the formula:

  • Water 82.7%
  • Carbomer 940 0.5%
  • Triethanolamine 0.5%
  • Sweet Almond Oil 2%
  • Glycerin 5%
  • GlucoBright 2%
  • Vit B3 2%
  • Double Hyaluron Liquid 0.1%
  • Allantoin 0.2%
  • Mild Preserve Eco 1%
  • Fragrance 2%
  • Turmeric Extract (extracted using Propylene Glycol) 2%

Answer

Formula Analysis and Suggestions

Your current formula is a gel base containing several ingredients known for their moisturizing, soothing, and whitening properties.

Current Formula Ingredients:

  • Water (82.7%)
  • Carbomer 940 (0.5%)
  • Triethanolamine (0.5%)
  • Sweet Almond Oil (2%)
  • Glycerin (5%)
  • GlucoBright (Acetyl Glucosamine) (2%)
  • Vit B3 (Niacinamide) (2%)
  • Double Hyaluron Liquid (0.1%)
  • Allantoin (0.2%)
  • Mild Preserve Eco (1%)
  • Fragrance (2%)
  • Turmeric Extract (WhiteCumin™) (2%)

Analysis and Suggestions for Whitening/Brightening:

Your formula already includes good whitening ingredients like GlucoBright (Acetyl Glucosamine), Vit B3 (Niacinamide), and Turmeric Extract (WhiteCumin™).

  • GlucoBright (Acetyl Glucosamine) and Vit B3 (Niacinamide) work synergistically to reduce dark spots and brighten skin. The product descriptions suggest that using GlucoBright at 4% in combination with Vit B3 at 2-4% (or even up to 5% for Safe-B3™) provides optimal results. Your current formula uses both at 2%.

    • Suggestion: Increase the percentage of GlucoBright to 4% and Vit B3 (Safe-B3™) to 4-5% to enhance their combined whitening effect.
  • Turmeric Extract (WhiteCumin™) is also a good whitening and antioxidant ingredient. The product description recommends a usage rate of 0.1-1.0%, with 0.2% being ideal. Your formula uses 2%, which is higher than the recommended maximum.

    • Suggestion: Reduce the percentage of Turmeric Extract (WhiteCumin™) to the recommended range, perhaps 0.5-1.0%. Using more than the recommended amount may not provide additional benefits and could potentially affect the formula's stability or aesthetics.
  • To further boost the whitening effect, you could add another potent whitening ingredient. Alpha Arbutin is highly effective and safe. The product description for Alpha Arbutin (Switzerland) recommends a usage rate of 0.2-2%, with 2% recommended for skin brightening.

    • Suggestion: Consider adding Alpha Arbutin (Switzerland) at 2% to your formula.

Analysis and Suggestions for Hydration and Texture:

  • Your formula includes Sweet Almond Oil, Glycerin, and Double Hyaluron Liquid for hydration.
  • The percentage of Double Hyaluron Liquid is quite low (0.1%). The product description suggests 3-5% for normal skin hydration.

    • Suggestion: Increase the percentage of Double Hyaluron Liquid to 3-5% for significantly improved hydration and skin feel.
  • The percentage of Fragrance (2%) is relatively high for a facial product and might cause irritation for sensitive skin.

    • Suggestion: Reduce the Fragrance percentage to 0.1-0.5%.

Adding Sun Protection (SPF):

Adding sun protection requires incorporating UV filters into your formula. The most common types are physical filters like Zinc Oxide and Titanium Dioxide.

  • You can use water-dispersible forms like Zinc Oxide 40nm Dispersion (Water Base) and Titanium Dioxide Transparent (15nm, Water-Dispersion), which are suitable for a water-based gel.
  • To achieve a meaningful SPF (e.g., SPF 30 or higher), you will need to include a significant percentage of these filters. The product descriptions indicate usage rates up to 50% for these dispersions.
  • Adding high percentages of physical UV filters will significantly change the texture and appearance of your gel, potentially making it thicker and leaving a white cast (although the transparent/nano dispersions help minimize this).

  • Suggestion: If you want to add sun protection to this gel formula, you would need to incorporate Zinc Oxide 40nm Dispersion (Water Base) and/or Titanium Dioxide Transparent (15nm, Water-Dispersion) at a total percentage of 15-30% or more, depending on the desired SPF. Be aware this will impact the gel's texture and appearance. Alternatively, consider creating a separate sunscreen product or a day cream with SPF.

Summary of Suggested Modifications:

To enhance whitening/brightening and improve hydration:

  • Increase GlucoBright (Acetyl Glucosamine) from 2% to 4%.
  • Increase Vit B3 (Safe-B3™) from 2% to 4-5%.
  • Reduce Turmeric Extract (WhiteCumin™) from 2% to 0.5-1.0%.
  • Increase Double Hyaluron Liquid from 0.1% to 3-5%.
  • Reduce Fragrance from 2% to 0.1-0.5%.
  • (Optional) Add Alpha Arbutin (Switzerland) at 2%.

To add sun protection:

  • Incorporate Zinc Oxide 40nm Dispersion (Water Base) and/or Titanium Dioxide Transparent (15nm, Water-Dispersion) at a total percentage of 15-30% or more, depending on the desired SPF. Be aware this will change the texture and appearance.

Remember to adjust the percentage of Water accordingly when adding or increasing other ingredients to ensure the total formula adds up to 100%. Always perform stability and efficacy testing on your final formula.