Gel Formulation: Fixing Stringy Texture with Azelaic Acid and Revised Formula with Alpha Arbutin

Question

I am trying to formulate a gel. I used the following ingredients:

Water
Salicylic Acid EZ
Vitamin B5
Vitamin B3
Licorice extract
Azelaic Acid
Pro Polymer

When I mixed these ingredients, the gel had a stringy texture. How can I fix this issue with the batch I already made, and what is the correct mixing procedure for future batches?

Additionally, I have revised the formula and would like to know if the following can be made into a gel:

Water
Salicylic Acid EZ (10%)
Vitamin B5 (3%)
Vitamin B3 (5%)
Alpha Arbutin (2%)
Pro Polymer (1%)
Rest is Water

If this revised formula is possible, what are the recommendations for formulating it into a gel?

MySkinRecipes Expert · Accepted Answer

Gel Formulation Advice

Based on the information provided, the issue with your gel having a stringy texture is due to Azelaic Acid being a high electrolyte ingredient. When added before the gelling agent (Pro Polymer), it interferes with the Pro Polymer's ability to dissolve and form a smooth gel.

Recommended Mixing Procedure (for new batches):

Combine Water, Salicylic Acid EZ, Vitamin B5, Vitamin B3, and Licorice extract. Mix until everything is dissolved and clear.
Add Pro Polymer to the mixture from step 1. Stir or blend until a smooth gel is formed.
Gradually add Azelaic Acid (if using) in small amounts, stirring well after each addition until fully incorporated. The gel might become slightly thinner. If it becomes too thin, you can add a little more Pro Polymer to adjust the consistency.

To fix the already mixed batch:

You will need to blend the mixture sufficiently, ideally using a blender for about 15-30 minutes. Manual stirring is generally not enough for the Pro Polymer to dissolve completely when electrolytes like Azelaic Acid were added early.

Regarding your revised formula with Alpha Arbutin:

Your revised formula using Water, Salicylic Acid EZ (10%), Vitamin B5 (3%), Vitamin B3 (5%), Alpha Arbutin (2%), and Pro Polymer (1%), with the rest being water, is possible.

Staff Recommendations for the revised formula:

Add a preservative: It is recommended to add a preservative such as Mild Preserved Eco (1%) to prevent microbial growth. Alternatively, you can use 1,2-Hexanediol (3%), which also helps reduce air bubbles and can replace other preservatives.
Mixing Order: Mix all ingredients except Pro Polymer first until they are well combined and clear. Then, add the Pro Polymer and stir or blend until it is completely dissolved and a smooth gel forms. Air bubbles may appear but will typically disappear within 3-5 days.

Important Note: The staff previously advised against adding Azelaic Acid to the original formula because combining it with Salicylic Acid could increase skin irritation. Your revised formula replaces Azelaic Acid with Alpha Arbutin, which the staff confirmed can be used in this type of formula.