Gel Formulation Issue: Pro Polymer™ and Acetic Acid

Asked by: levelnoishiny On: August 03, 2025 Product Type: Cosmetics

Question

I am attempting to create a gel product, but it has not gelled even after nearly 20 hours; it remains in liquid form. I have prepared the following formulation:

Order Ingredient Function and Reason for Use Concentration (%) Quantity (grams) Quantity (ml)
1 Water Extract from หมาน้อย Leaf Primary solvent, active ingredient 74.0 37.0 37.0
2 Glycerin Humectant 5.0 2.5 2.0
3 Pro Polymer™ Gelling Agent 2.0 0.5 + (measured by weight)
4 Pectinase Pectin-degrading enzyme 2.0 1.0
5 Vitamin E Antioxidant, skin nourishing 2.0 1.0 1.1
6 Polysorbate 80 Oil-in-water emulsifier 3.0 1.5 1.4
7 Acetic Acid 5% pH adjuster, electrolyte 12.0 6.0 6.0
Total 100% 50.0 50.5

My current mixing procedure is as follows:

  1. Prepare the Oil Phase (Emulsion Base):
    • In a clean, dry container, add Vitamin E.
    • Slowly add Polysorbate 80 (referred to as Tween 80 in my notes) little by little, stirring continuously with a spatula or spoon in one direction until both ingredients are uniformly mixed. Polysorbate 80 will act as an emulsifier to allow Vitamin E to combine with water later.
  2. Prepare the Gel Phase (Gel Base):
    • In another container, add the fresh หมาน้อย leaf water extract. (Note: The remaining Pectinase enzyme was already mixed into this fresh หมาน้อย leaf water extract).
    • Add Glycerin and stir to combine.
    • Slowly sprinkle Pro Polymer™ powder into the water mixture in very small amounts, stirring continuously with a spatula in one direction.

I have paused at this last step, waiting for the mixture to form a gel before incorporating the oil phase from step 1, and then adding the Acetic Acid once the gel has formed. However, the mixture is still not gelling. What could be the reason for this issue?

Answer

The problem with your gel not forming after almost 20 hours could be due to several reasons, especially the mixing method of Pro Polymer™ with Glycerin in your formula, and the effect of electrolytes like Acetic Acid.

Possible Causes and Solutions:

  1. Incorrect Mixing Order of Pro Polymer™ with Glycerin:

    • Problem: According to the information for Pro Polymer™, if the formula contains Glycerin at 5% or more (your formula has 5%), it is recommended to mix Pro Polymer™ with Glycerin thoroughly first, and then add this mixture to the water phase.
    • Solution: In your "Gel Base preparation" step, you added Glycerin to the "หมาน้อย" leaf extract first, and then sprinkled Pro Polymer™. This might prevent Pro Polymer™ from dispersing and dissolving as effectively as it should. If you haven't left the mixture for too long, consider redoing it by mixing Pro Polymer™ with Glycerin first, then slowly adding that mixture to the "หมาน้อย" leaf extract while stirring gently.
  2. Dissolution Time of Pro Polymer™:

    • Problem: Pro Polymer™ may require time to absorb water and form a gel. It is generally recommended to leave it for approximately 1 day (24 hours) to allow the powder to fully absorb water before gently stirring for complete dissolution.
    • Solution: Although you have waited almost 20 hours, if the initial mixing was incorrect, the process might be slower. If you correct the mixing as per point 1, leave it for a full 24 hours, or slightly longer, then gently stir to allow the gel to form.
  3. Effect of Electrolyte (Acetic Acid):

    • Problem: Acetic Acid is an electrolyte, which can affect the viscosity of the gel. Although Pro Polymer™ has good electrolyte resistance, adding a large amount of electrolyte (you are using 12% Acetic Acid 5%) can cause the gel to soften or may require a higher amount of Pro Polymer™.
    • Solution:
      • Increase Pro Polymer™ amount: If you find the gel is still too thin after correcting the mixing method and waiting, consider increasing the Pro Polymer™ amount to 2.5-3% (from the current 2%) to achieve the desired viscosity, especially with a high percentage of Acetic Acid.
      • Adding Acetic Acid: Acetic Acid should be added after the gel has formed, and it should be added slowly while stirring gently to observe the change in gel texture. If the gel softens too much, you might need to adjust the Pro Polymer™ amount further.
  4. Storage of Pro Polymer™:

    • Problem: If Pro Polymer™ has been exposed to moisture, it might clump and become more difficult to dissolve.
    • Solution: Check the condition of your Pro Polymer™ powder. If it's clumpy, it might require more time and energy to stir and dissolve.

Recommended Corrective Steps:

  1. Start Over (if feasible): If the amount of wasted ingredients is not significant, try starting over by following the correct Pro Polymer™ mixing procedure.
  2. Mix Pro Polymer™ with Glycerin First: In a clean container, mix Pro Polymer™ (2%) thoroughly with Glycerin (5%) before adding it to the water phase.
  3. Slowly Add to Water: Gradually add the Pro Polymer™ + Glycerin mixture to the "หมาน้อย" leaf extract (which already contains Pectinase). Stir slowly and continuously.
  4. Allow for Water Absorption: After mixing, leave the mixture for approximately 24 hours to allow Pro Polymer™ to fully absorb water and form the gel. Avoid vigorous stirring or using high-speed blenders, as this can damage the polymer structure.
  5. Adjust Gel Texture with Acetic Acid: Once the gel has formed to your desired consistency, slowly add the 5% Acetic Acid (12%) little by little, stirring gently and observing the viscosity. If the gel becomes too thin, you might need to consider adding a small amount more of Pro Polymer™.

Gel making requires an understanding of each ingredient's properties and correct mixing techniques.

Related Products Mentioned