Gel Formulation Review: Pro Polymer, Phenoxyethanol, and Stickiness for Nighttime Use

ถามโดย: topsmart เมื่อ: May 19, 2015 ประเภทผลิตภัณฑ์: เครื่องสำอาง

คำถาม

I want to create a gel from the following ingredients:

  • Water: 62%
  • Repair activator: 10%
  • Sea kelp bioferment: 10%
  • Centella asiatica extract (madecassoside): 5%
  • Nicinamide: 4%
  • N-acetyl-D glucosamine: 4%
  • Licorice root extract: 2%
  • Pro polymer: 2%
  • Phenoxyethanol: 0.8%
  • Disodium EDTA: 0.2%

I am unsure if the percentages of Pro polymer and Phenoxyethanol are appropriate. Also, are there too many ingredients, making it too sticky for nighttime application? How should I adjust, increase, decrease, or change the formula? Thank you in advance.

คำตอบ

Formulation Feedback

Thank you for sharing your gel formulation! Let's look at the percentages of Pro Polymer and Phenoxyethanol, and discuss the potential texture for nighttime use.

Pro Polymer (2%)

Your usage of Pro Polymer at 2% is within the recommended range (0.5-5%). The optimal percentage depends on the desired gel thickness and the presence of other ingredients, particularly electrolytes (like salts from extracts or Disodium EDTA), which can reduce viscosity. At 2%, you should achieve a noticeable gel texture. Keep in mind that Pro Polymer can cause a slight sticky feeling initially upon application, similar to high molecular weight Hyaluronic Acid. If your formula contains significant electrolytes, 2% might be necessary to get the desired gel, but it could contribute to stickiness.

Phenoxyethanol (0.8%)

The percentage of Phenoxyethanol at 0.8% is appropriate for preservation in cosmetic formulations and falls within the typical recommended range (0.5-1.0%).

Potential Stickiness for Nighttime Use

Your formula contains a high concentration of active ingredients, which collectively can contribute to the overall feel and potential stickiness, especially for a nighttime product where a lighter texture is often preferred.

Ingredients and percentages that are likely contributing to the texture:

  • Pro Polymer (2%): As mentioned, can cause initial stickiness.
  • Sea Kelp Bioferment (10%): This is at the higher end of the recommended range (1-10%, with 1-3% recommended for general skin care). High percentages of extracts can sometimes add to stickiness or a heavier feel.
  • Centella Asiatica Extract (Madecassoside) (5%): Your percentage is significantly higher than the generally recommended rate (0.1-2%, with 1% recommended). Using a high percentage like this might not fully dissolve or disperse, potentially affecting the texture and contributing to a heavier feel.

Suggested Adjustments

To potentially reduce stickiness and achieve a lighter feel suitable for nighttime, consider the following adjustments:

  1. Reduce Centella Asiatica Extract: Lowering the percentage of Centella Asiatica Extract to the recommended range of 1-2% would still provide beneficial effects while likely improving the texture.
  2. Consider reducing Sea Kelp Bioferment: While 10% is within the allowed range, reducing it to 3-5% could help lighten the texture without losing significant benefits. You could test different percentages to find a balance between efficacy and feel.
  3. Evaluate Pro Polymer based on texture: After adjusting the extracts, test the gel texture. If it's still too thick or sticky, a slight reduction in Pro Polymer could be considered, but ensure the formula remains properly gelled. If it becomes too thin, you might need to keep Pro Polymer at 2% or slightly higher depending on the electrolyte content.

Testing the adjusted formula is the best way to determine the final texture and make sure it meets your preference for a nighttime gel.

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