Gel Formulation: Water Content, Liquid Ingredients, Veegum, and EDTA

Question

I am formulating a gel and need advice regarding the liquid phase. My goal is to have a 70% liquid phase, but I only have 36g of pure water.

I have several other liquid ingredients and would like to know if they can be counted towards the 70% liquid phase. The ingredients are:

Ethoxydiglycol
Calendula Extract (Water Soluble)
Licorice Extract (Water-Soluble)
Matrixyl™ 3000
Sea Kelp Extract
Hydrolyzed Rice Protein (Colhibin)
Syn®-Coll

If I use less than 70% pure water and supplement with these other liquids, how will it affect the final gel texture (e.g., will it be too thick or sticky) and the concentration of active ingredients?

Additionally, I am using filtered water (not distilled). Is Disodium EDTA necessary, and what is its function in this context? Can I omit it for short-term use?

Finally, I've had some difficulty dissolving Veegum. What is the best method to ensure it dissolves completely, especially if I need to add other ingredients early in the process?

MySkinRecipes Expert · Accepted Answer

Understanding Your Gel Formulation's Water Content

You're asking about the water content in your homemade gel and which of your liquid ingredients can be counted towards the recommended 70% water phase, given you only have 36g of pure water.

Based on the information available for your ingredients:

Ethoxydiglycol: This is a solvent and carrier, soluble in water and glycols. It adds to the liquid phase but isn't pure water.
Calendula Extract (Water Soluble): Designed for the water phase and water-soluble. It contributes to the liquid phase, likely containing water or a water-miscible solvent like Propylene Glycol.
Licorice Extract (Water-Soluble): Supplied as aqueous solutions, these dissolve directly in water and contribute to the water phase.
Matrixyl™ 3000: Contains Water, Glycerin, and Butylene Glycol. It's water-soluble and significantly contributes to the water phase.
Sea Kelp Extract: A liquid gel, mixed and soluble in water. Likely water-based, contributing to the water phase.

Specific information for Hydrolyzed Rice Protein (Colhibin) and Syn®-Coll was not found in the database to confirm their base composition.

While several of your liquid ingredients are water-based or water-miscible and add to the total liquid volume, they aren't pure water. To know if your total liquid phase reaches 70%, you'd need the exact percentage of water/solvent in each ingredient and the amount you're using.

As previously advised, aiming for at least 70% pure water is recommended, especially for beginners. This helps achieve the right texture (less thick/sticky) and ensures active ingredient concentrations align with standard usage rates, which assume a high water content. Using less liquid phase might result in a heavier, stickier product and higher active concentrations per application.

Other points from the conversation:

Water Source: Distilled water is best. If using filtered water, Disodium EDTA is highly recommended.
Disodium EDTA: It chelates metal ions in non-distilled water that can degrade actives. It's advisable for stability and shelf life, especially for expensive actives. You can omit it for very short-term use (a few weeks).
Dissolving Veegum: Use continuous heat (not microwave) and stir Veegum in pure water before adding other ingredients for best results.

In summary, while your liquid ingredients help, relying only on 36g of pure water plus these might not reach 70% liquid. Using more pure water as your base is generally safer.