Gel Formulation with Vitamin C, Glutathione, and Other Actives

Hello,

Regarding your proposed gel formula with Vitamin C and Glutathione, here is the information based on your questions and the feedback provided:

Your formula is generally viable, but as noted, the amount of Allantoin should be adjusted to 0.3g for a 100g batch, not 0.7g. The other ingredients and their proposed percentages are acceptable.

Amount of Triethanolamine

You cannot specify an exact amount of Triethanolamine beforehand. The correct method is to add it gradually after mixing the other ingredients (excluding the gel maker) and measure the pH. Continue adding Triethanolamine until the pH reaches approximately 3.5. This is necessary because the initial pH can vary slightly depending on the specific raw material batches.

Mixing Order

The recommended mixing order is to combine all ingredients first, except for Triethanolamine and the gel maker (Pro Polymer). After the initial ingredients are mixed, adjust the pH to around 3.5 using Triethanolamine. Once the desired pH is reached, then add the Pro Polymer and mix until the gel texture is formed. Ingredients like Zinc PCA, which are electrolytes, should be added before the Pro Polymer, as noted in the Pro Polymer description, and you might need to use a slightly higher amount of Pro Polymer if you have significant electrolytes in the formula.

Difference between Vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid) types

The difference between standard, fine, and ultra-fine L-ascorbic acid lies primarily in their particle size and ease of dissolution.

• Standard L-ascorbic acid has a normal particle size.
• Fine L-ascorbic acid has a smaller particle size (around 200-300 microns).
• Ultra-Fine L-ascorbic acid has the smallest particle size (smaller than 45 microns).

Ultra-Fine L-ascorbic acid dissolves more easily and quickly in water compared to the standard or fine grades.

Efficacy

Once fully dissolved in a water-based formula like your proposed gel, all forms of L-ascorbic acid (standard, fine, or ultra-fine) will have the same efficacy because they are the same active molecule. The choice between them mainly affects the ease and time required for dissolution during the formulation process. For a water-based gel, the regular or fine grade is usually sufficient, though it might require more mixing time.

Ingredients mentioned in your formula include:

• L-ascorbic acid (Vitamin C)
• Glutathione
• Niacinamide (Vitamin B3)
• Acetyl Glucosamine
• D-Panthenol (Pro-Vitamin B5)
• Zinc PCA
• Allantoin
• Triethanolamine
• Pro Polymer

Hope this helps with your formulation!