Gel Pilling Issue
Question
I made a gel using:
- Galactomyces 50ml
- Xanthan Gum 0.5 gram
- Repair Activator 7.5 ml
After mixing, when I apply it and rub my face, it forms white flakes/powder and makeup doesn't adhere well. How can I fix this problem? Is the gel still effective?
Answer
Subject: Regarding Gel Pilling
Hello,
Thank you for your question about the gel formulation you made with Galactomyces, Xanthan Gum, and Repair Activator.
The issue you're experiencing, where the gel forms white flakes or "pills" when you rub your face, is a common phenomenon called pilling. This often happens in gel formulations, especially when using gelling agents like Xanthan Gum or ingredients that form a film on the skin.
Pilling can occur due to several reasons:
- Concentration of Gelling Agent: Using too much Xanthan Gum can contribute to pilling. Your formulation uses 0.5g in roughly 57.5ml, which is a relatively high concentration (~0.87%).
- Incomplete Hydration: If the Xanthan Gum is not fully hydrated and dispersed evenly, it can lead to clumping and pilling.
- Interaction with Skin or Other Products: The gel might interact with dead skin cells or residue from previously applied products, causing it to roll up.
- Application Technique: Rubbing the gel vigorously can also cause pilling.
How to potentially fix or reduce pilling in a new batch:
- Reduce Xanthan Gum Concentration: Try making a new batch with a lower amount of Xanthan Gum. You could try reducing it to 0.2-0.3% of the total volume. For your 57.5ml batch, this would be approximately 0.115g to 0.17g. This is the most likely cause and solution.
- Proper Mixing: Ensure the Xanthan Gum is fully dispersed and hydrated. You can try mixing the Xanthan Gum powder with a tiny amount of glycerin (if you have it) or adding it very slowly to the liquid phase while stirring continuously and vigorously until it's completely dissolved and the gel is smooth.
- Application: Apply a very thin layer of the gel to clean skin. Try patting it gently rather than rubbing. Allow the gel to absorb and dry completely before applying any other products, especially makeup.
Regarding the effectiveness of the gel:
The pilling issue is primarily a textural and application problem. It does not necessarily mean that the active ingredients (Galactomyces Ferment Filtrate and Bifida Ferment Lysate) are ineffective. These ingredients are known for their potential skin-conditioning and soothing properties. As long as the ingredients were mixed properly and the product is applied to the skin, the active components should still be present and capable of providing their intended benefits, even if the texture is not ideal due to pilling.
In summary, while the pilling is inconvenient and affects makeup application, the active ingredients in your gel should still be working. To improve the texture and reduce pilling in future batches, try reducing the amount of Xanthan Gum and ensuring proper mixing and application.
We hope this helps!