Addressing Foaming and Stiffness in Your Gel Pomade

It sounds like you're experiencing some common challenges when formulating a water-based gel pomade, specifically foaming and hair stiffness. Let's break down the potential causes and solutions based on the ingredients you're using and the feedback you've received.

Understanding the Issues

1. Foaming: The foaming you observe during heating, application, and washing is likely due to the presence of ingredients with surfactant and emulsifying properties in your formula, namely Coco Wash (PEG-7 Glyceryl Cocoate) and Paste Maker (Ceteareth-25). Surfactants inherently create foam, and vigorous mixing, especially during heating and cooling, can incorporate air and exacerbate this. The staff also noted that Glycerin, if used and not mixed properly, can contribute to foaming and cloudiness.
2. Hair Stiffness and "Tight" Feeling: The stiffness and the "tight" feeling on your hair after washing are most likely caused by PVP-K90. PVP-K90 is a strong hair fixative designed to provide a hard, long-lasting hold. While effective for styling, it can leave hair feeling stiff and contribute to that "tight" sensation, especially when combined with the cleansing action of the surfactant during washing.

Recommended Solutions

To address these issues, consider the following adjustments to your formula and process:

1. Optimize Mixing Technique:

   • Ensure you are mixing gently, particularly when adding Coco Wash and Paste Maker to the water phase. Avoid vigorous stirring or whipping that can incorporate excessive air.
   • Follow the specific mixing instructions for Coco Wash, which recommend adding it to water and stirring gently, rather than adding water to the ingredient.
   • If you decide to include Glycerin (as suggested in the staff's example formula), pay close attention to the mixing process for this ingredient as well, as improper mixing can lead to foaming and cloudiness.

2. Adjust the Hair Fixative:

   • To reduce the stiffness and the "tight" feeling on your hair, we highly recommend replacing PVP-K90 with a hair fixative that offers a more natural hold.
   • Based on the staff's suggested formula for pomade, Easy Hair Styler (8 Hr.) is a suitable alternative. It provides styling hold without the same level of stiffness as PVP-K90 and is designed to be easily washed out.
   • If you are aiming for a clear gel formula, the staff also mentioned Easy Hair Styler (6 Hr./Clear) as an option.

3. Consider the Full Formulation:

   • Refer back to the complete example formula provided by the staff. This formula includes not only Paste Maker, Coco Wash, and a recommended hair fixative (Easy Hair Styler (8 Hr.)), but also Glycerin (for moisture and texture) and a preservative (Phenoxyethanol SA).
   • Using a more complete formulation based on this example can help ensure better stability and performance of your pomade.

By adjusting your mixing technique and switching to a hair fixative like Easy Hair Styler (8 Hr.), you should be able to significantly reduce the foaming and eliminate the undesirable stiffness, resulting in a more pleasant gel pomade. While Coco Wash will still contribute some mild foaming during washing, the overall feel on your hair should be much improved.