Gentle Cucumber Facial Gel Formula Review

Regarding your gentle cucumber facial gel formula aiming for a pH of 5.5, the staff's feedback is accurate and helpful.

• Cucumber Extract: As mentioned, using a high percentage (4%) of Cucumber Extract in a wash-off product like a facial cleanser may not provide significant benefits because the contact time with the skin is very short. Natural extracts generally require more time on the skin to be effective. While it can be included for marketing claims or a slight soothing effect, a lower percentage (e.g., 0.1%) is often sufficient for this purpose in rinse-off products.
• Allantoin: The staff correctly pointed out that the usage rate for Allantoin should be calculated based on the water phase, not the total formula, and should not exceed 0.5% of the water phase at room temperature (25°C) due to its solubility limit. If your water phase is 44.5%, then 0.5% of the water phase is 0.5% * 0.445 = 0.2225%. So, 0.5% of the total formula might be too much to fully dissolve, depending on the exact water content.
• Other Ingredients: Ingredients like Betaine, Sodium Lactate Plus, and Natural Moisturizing Amino Acids are suitable for this type of formula as they provide moisture and reduce irritation, and can work effectively even with short contact time.
• Lactic Acid: This is suitable for adjusting the pH to 5.5.
• Xanthan Gum: 0.5% should be sufficient to create a gel texture.
• Phenoxyethanol: 0.5% is a standard usage rate for preservation.

Overall, the formula structure is sound, but adjusting the Cucumber Extract and ensuring Allantoin is within its solubility limit in the water phase are important considerations.

Substitute for Willow Bark Extract

Regarding your question about Salix Nigra (Willow) Bark Extract, it has been discontinued due to its relatively high cost compared to the low concentration of natural salicylic acid it provides. To achieve a noticeable effect, a high percentage is needed.

A recommended substitute is Encapsulated Salicylic Acid (Liquid, Timed-Release, Wash-Off). This form of Salicylic Acid is water-soluble and designed for wash-off products, offering a timed release that is gentler on the skin while still providing the benefits of salicylic acid, such as exfoliation and helping with clogged pores. It is a more efficient and cost-effective option for incorporating salicylic acid into rinse-off formulations.