Gentle Everyday Shampoo Formulation: Surfactant Choice and Viscosity Adjustment

Asked by: pockyrainy On: March 30, 2021 Product Type: Cosmetics

Question

I would like to make a gentle shampoo formulation for everyday use. Can I use Disodium Laureth Sulfosuccinate 30% as the sole cleansing agent?

Here is my proposed formula:

  • Disodium Laureth Sulfosuccinate 30%
  • Cetrimonium Chloride (CTAC) 2%
  • Poly-Conditioner Eco 3%
  • Mild Preserved Eco 2%
  • น้ำมันหอมระเหย (for scent) 1%
  • น้ำกลั่น

Based on the formula above, should I adjust or add anything? What method should I choose for adjusting viscosity?

Answer

Disodium Laureth Sulfosuccinate is a mild surfactant suitable for gentle cleansing products like baby shampoos or products for sensitive skin. However, using Disodium Laureth Sulfosuccinate as the sole cleansing agent in an everyday shampoo might have limitations in terms of cleaning performance, especially for hair that may have accumulated oil or dirt, and the amount of foam might not be as much as desired.

Regarding your proposed formula:
Using Disodium Laureth Sulfosuccinate 30% as the main surfactant is possible for a gentle shampoo, but to achieve better cleaning performance and foam, it is often used in combination with other co-surfactants from the Amphoteric group (e.g., Cocamidopropyl Betaine) or Non-ionic group (e.g., Decyl Glucoside, Coco Glucoside) in appropriate proportions. Combining different surfactants helps enhance each other's performance, resulting in a shampoo that cleans better, has softer and more stable foam, while maintaining mildness.

The other ingredients in your formula, such as Cetrimonium Chloride and Poly-Conditioner Eco (Polyquaternium-7), are conditioning agents that help condition hair, reduce static electricity, and make hair soft and manageable, which are suitable for use in shampoo. Mild Preserved Eco and essential oil serve as preservative and fragrance, respectively.

Suggestions for formula adjustment:

  1. Add Co-surfactant: Consider adding about 3-5% of Cocamidopropyl Betaine or Decyl Glucoside/Coco Glucoside to enhance cleansing performance and foam.
  2. Viscosity Adjustment: The current formula will be very thin because Disodium Laureth Sulfosuccinate alone does not build viscosity well. Common methods for adjusting viscosity in surfactant systems include:
    • Adding Salt (Sodium Chloride - NaCl): This is a simple and economical method, but you need to add it gradually (e.g., 0.5-2%) as the appropriate amount depends on the type and quantity of surfactants in the formula. Using too much salt can also make the shampoo irritating.
    • Using Polymeric Thickeners: Such as Carbomer or certain Acrylates Copolymers designed for surfactant systems. This method provides more stable viscosity and is not dependent on salt concentration.
    • Using Certain Surfactants that Help Build Viscosity: Such as PEG-150 Distearate or Laureth-4/Laureth-23, which are often used in combination with main surfactants to help increase viscosity and improve texture.

Conclusion:
Using Disodium Laureth Sulfosuccinate as the main surfactant is possible, but it is recommended to add co-surfactants for better performance. Viscosity adjustment is necessary using one of the methods mentioned above.