Gentle Exfoliating and Moisturizing Essence

You're looking to create a gentle exfoliating and moisturizing essence for sensitive skin using PHA (Gluconolactone), LHA (Capryloyl Salicylic Acid), Squalane, and 8D Hyaluronic Acid. This combination targets exfoliation, blackheads, acne marks, and hydration.

Can These Ingredients Be Combined?

Yes, these ingredients can potentially be combined in an essence formulation, but it requires careful consideration due to their different solubilities:

• PHA (Gluconolactone) and 8D Hyaluronic Acid are water-soluble.
• LHA (Capryloyl Salicylic Acid) and Squalane are oil-soluble.

To combine water and oil phases in an essence, you will need a suitable solubilizer or a light emulsification system. The final formulation will also require careful pH adjustment to ensure the efficacy of the exfoliants (PHA works best around pH 3.4-4.5, while LHA is closer to pH 5.5) while minimizing irritation for sensitive skin. A target pH between 4 and 5 might be suitable, but testing is crucial.

Is PHA 10% + LHA 1% Too Strong for Sensitive Skin?

While PHA (Gluconolactone) at 10% is generally considered gentle and within its recommended usage range (1-15%), and LHA (Capryloyl Salicylic Acid) at 1% is also within its range (0.5-5%), the combination of two exfoliants at these concentrations could potentially be too strong for sensitive skin.

The description for LHA specifically recommends not exceeding 2% due to potential irritation. Combining 10% PHA with 1% LHA results in a total exfoliating acid concentration of 11%. For sensitive skin, this might lead to redness, dryness, or irritation.

It is highly recommended to start with lower concentrations of the exfoliants, especially LHA (perhaps 0.5% or less), or to use the product less frequently (e.g., on alternate days) to see how your skin reacts. Always perform a patch test before applying the product to your entire face.

How the Combination Addresses Your Concerns

• Gentle Exfoliation: PHA (Gluconolactone) offers mild surface exfoliation, suitable for sensitive skin due to its larger molecular size.
• Blackheads and Acne Marks: LHA (Capryloyl Salicylic Acid) is effective at exfoliating and can help dissolve clogged pores, making it beneficial for blackheads. Its exfoliating action also helps improve the appearance of acne marks over time.
• Moisturization: Squalane is a non-greasy emollient that provides excellent moisture and is well-tolerated by sensitive and acne-prone skin. 8D Hyaluronic Acid provides multi-depth hydration, helping to keep the skin plump and hydrated, counteracting potential dryness from the exfoliants.

By carefully formulating and considering the concentrations, this combination can create an essence that provides gentle exfoliation and targets blackheads/acne marks while keeping sensitive skin moisturized.