Gentle Facial Cleanser Formulation (Alternative)

Based on the original formula you provided and the feedback from My Skin Recipes staff regarding the high pH of soap-based cleansers, directly replicating that formula is not ideal for skin health as it can cause dryness and irritation. The original formula relies on the reaction of fatty acids (Stearic Acid, Lauric Acid, Myristic Acid) with Potassium Hydroxide to create soap, which results in a high pH.

Instead, we can formulate a gentle facial cleanser using milder surfactants and beneficial ingredients available from My Skin Recipes, aiming for a skin-friendly pH (typically 5.5-6.5). This approach will cleanse effectively without stripping the skin's natural barrier.

Here is a proposed alternative formulation and mixing method:

Ingredients:

• Phase A (Water Phase):
  • Water: 60-70%
  • Glycerin: 5%
  • Propylene Glycol: 3%
  • Disodium EDTA: 0.1%
  • Carbomer 980: 0.2-0.5% (adjust for desired thickness)
  • Aloe Vera Extract: 1%
  • Vitamin B3 (Niacinamide): 2%
  • Hydrolyzed Pea Protein: 1%
  • Coenzyme Q10 (Water-Soluble): 0.5%
• Phase B (Oil Phase):
  • Glyceryl Stearate SE: 2%
  • Glycol Distearate: 1% (for pearlizing effect)
  • Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride: 2%
  • LipidSoft™ B (Dibutyl adipate): 1%
  • Vitamin E (Tocopheryl Acetate): 0.5%
• Phase C (Surfactant Phase):
  • Sodium Methyl Cocoyl Taurate (90%, Solid): 5%
  • Sodium Cocoyl Glycinate: 5%
• Phase D (Neutralization):
  • Triethanolamine 99%: 0.1-0.3% (diluted 1:10 with water, add drop by drop to neutralize Carbomer and adjust pH)
• Phase E (Cool Down Phase):
  • Mild Preserved™ COS: 1%
  • Fragrance: 0.1-0.5% (Optional)
  • Lactic Acid or Citric Acid solution (10-20%): As needed to adjust final pH to 5.5-6.5

Mixing Instructions:

1. Prepare Phase A: In a heat-resistant beaker, add Water. Gradually sprinkle Carbomer 980 while stirring vigorously to ensure it disperses without clumping. Heat the water phase to 70-75°C. Add Glycerin, Propylene Glycol, and Disodium EDTA. Once fully dissolved, add Aloe Vera Extract, Vitamin B3, Hydrolyzed Pea Protein, and Water-Soluble Coenzyme Q10. Maintain temperature and stir.
2. Prepare Phase B: In a separate beaker, combine Glyceryl Stearate SE, Glycol Distearate, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, LipidSoft™ B, and Vitamin E. Heat this oil phase to 70-75°C until all solids are melted and the phase is uniform.
3. Combine Phases A and B: Slowly pour the oil phase (B) into the water phase (A) while stirring continuously with a homogenizer or high-shear mixer. Mix for 5-10 minutes at this temperature to create a stable emulsion.
4. Neutralize Carbomer: Cool the emulsion to around 50-60°C while continuing to stir. Prepare a diluted solution of Triethanolamine (1 part TEA to 10 parts water). Slowly add the diluted Triethanolamine drop by drop to the emulsion while stirring. The mixture will start to thicken as the Carbomer is neutralized. Add just enough to achieve the desired gel consistency.
5. Add Surfactants: Cool the mixture further to 40-45°C. Gently add the surfactants (Phase C - Sodium Methyl Cocoyl Taurate and Sodium Cocoyl Glycinate). Mix slowly and carefully to incorporate them without creating excessive foam.
6. Cool Down and Add Final Ingredients: Continue cooling to room temperature (below 30°C). Add the preservative (Mild Preserved™ COS) and fragrance (if using). Mix until fully incorporated.
7. Adjust pH: Measure the pH of the final product. If it is above 6.5, add a few drops of Lactic Acid or Citric Acid solution, mix, and re-measure until the pH is between 5.5 and 6.5. If the pH is too low, add a tiny amount of diluted Triethanolamine or Sodium Hydroxide solution.
8. Packaging: Once the pH is adjusted and the mixture is uniform, package the facial cleanser into suitable containers.

This formulation provides a gentle cleansing experience with added skin-conditioning benefits, avoiding the high alkalinity issue of traditional soap-based formulas.