Gentle Preservatives for Eyeshadow (Alternatives to Phenoxyethanol)
Question
I am formulating an eyeshadow product. I am currently using Phenoxyethanol as a preservative. I would like to know if there are alternative gentle preservatives suitable for use in eyeshadow, especially for the eye area. What are the recommended usage rates and properties of these alternatives?
Answer
Preservatives for Eyeshadow
You are currently using Phenoxyethanol as a preservative in your eyeshadow formulation. While Phenoxyethanol is a common preservative, especially the Extra Pure grade which reduces irritation risk, it is not considered broad-spectrum on its own and is more effective against bacteria than fungi. For eye products, the recommended usage rate for Phenoxyethanol is typically no more than 0.5%.
The staff has recommended two gentle alternatives that are highly suitable for eye area products:
- Mild Preserved Eco™ (Preservative-Free): This ingredient is not classified as a preservative by the FDA but possesses germ-killing properties and acts as a humectant. It is a blend of Ethylhexylglycerin and 1,3 Propanediol. It is very gentle and odorless. It can be used at 1.0-1.5% for general cosmetic formulas. It can withstand heat up to 80°C for 5 minutes and is effective in formulas with a pH range of 4-9.
- 1,2-Hexanediol (Super-Purified, Odorless): Also not classified as a preservative, 1,2-Hexanediol is known for its ability to boost the effectiveness of other preservatives, allowing for lower concentrations of traditional preservatives. It also has its own germ-fighting capabilities. It can be used at 3% in a formula to control bacteria effectively according to Challenge Test standards. It also functions as a humectant and can enhance the penetration of other ingredients. It can withstand heat up to 80°C for 30 minutes.
Another alternative you might consider is Phenoxyethanol SA (eq. Optiphen Plus). This is a broad-spectrum preservative blend containing Phenoxyethanol, Caprylyl Glycol, and Sorbic Acid, offering better protection against fungi than Phenoxyethanol alone. For eye products, the recommended usage rate is also no more than 0.5%. It should be added in the final step below 60°C and works best in a pH range of 2.0-6.0.
When choosing a preservative, especially for sensitive areas like the eyes, consider the required spectrum of activity (bacteria, fungi, yeast), compatibility with your formula's pH and ingredients, and the desired level of gentleness.
Regardless of the preservative chosen, it is crucial to perform a challenge test on your final eyeshadow formulation before selling to ensure its effectiveness and safety.
Related Products Mentioned
Phenoxyethanol (Extra Pure)
Phenoxyethanol SA (eq. Optiphen Plus)