Gentle Shampoo and Hair Conditioner Formulation Advice

Question

I am developing formulas for a gentle, SLS-free shampoo and a hair conditioner. I need advice on my proposed formulas, specifically regarding ingredient percentages and mixing procedures.

Gentle Shampoo (SLS-Free):

My proposed formula uses the following cleansing agents:

Cocamidopropyl Betaine
BabyFoam™
Creamy Foamer™

I would like advice on the appropriate percentage for Glycerin (currently considering 20%) and the usage percentage for Cationic Guar (GuarCat™) and SiliWater (Dimethicone Copolyol). I also need confirmation on the correct mixing steps, especially for dissolving Cationic Guar and adding surfactants.

I previously attempted a shampoo formula that resulted in a cloudy product with potential undissolved particles. I want to ensure my new formula avoids this issue.

Hair Conditioner:

My proposed conditioner formula includes:

Water
Cetrimonium Chloride
Vitamin B5
Natural Moisturizing Amino Acids
Glycerin
Pure Keratin
Jojoba Oil
emulPearl™ (Cream/Lotion type)
Light Cream Maker

I need confirmation on the correct mixing steps for this conditioner formula, following standard cream-making principles (Water Phase, Oil Phase, Emulsification, adding heat-sensitive ingredients). Additionally, I would like to know if I can increase the percentage of Light Cream Maker to achieve a thicker consistency (e.g., 3-4% or higher) and if this would affect the formula's stability or feel.

MySkinRecipes Expert · Accepted Answer

Gentle Shampoo and Conditioner Formula Advice

Based on your questions and the advice from the MySkinRecipes team, here is a summary:

Gentle Shampoo Formula (SLS-Free)

Your latest proposed formula is a significant improvement! Using a combination of gentle surfactants (Cocamidopropyl Betaine, BabyFoam™, Creamy Foamer™) is an excellent way to cleanse without irritating the scalp while still providing good foam.

For the other ingredients and mixing steps, here are some additional recommendations:

Glycerin: A concentration of 20% is quite high for a shampoo and might result in a heavy or sticky feel. You might consider reducing it to 1-5% initially. This helps maintain the clarity of the shampoo and avoids tackiness while still providing moisturizing properties.
Cationic Guar (GuarCat™): Using 0.15% - 0.25% as recommended by the staff is appropriate. Using too much can make the hair feel heavy.
SiliWater (Dimethicone Copolyol): Including 0.5%-1% will effectively help condition and reduce frizz in the hair.
Dissolving Cationic Guar: To prevent clumping, you should slowly sprinkle the Cationic Guar powder into the water phase (the water part of your formula) while stirring or blending continuously until it is fully dissolved. It may take some time for the powder to hydrate and fully dissolve. Using a high-shear blender initially can help disperse it better, followed by slower mixing.
Mixing Steps: The mixing order you summarized and the staff recommended is correct. Combine the water phase ingredients and water-soluble ingredients first (including Cationic Guar and SiliWater). Then, gently add the surfactants to the water phase, mixing slowly to avoid excessive foam. Add SugarThick™ (may require warming to dissolve), adjust pH, and add the preservative, fragrance (solubilized in FloraSolve™), and color in the final steps.

Regarding the issue with your first shampoo attempt and the pictures you sent (which the AI cannot see), if the result was cloudy or had undissolved particles, it might be due to incomplete dissolution of some ingredients, especially powders like Cationic Guar or using ingredients intended for opaque/creamy formulas (like emulPearl used in creams) in a formula intended to be clear. Your revised formula does not include emulPearl, which is good if you aim for a clear shampoo.

Hair Conditioner Formula

The conditioner formula you proposed is suitable. It focuses on conditioning and nourishing ingredients without a high concentration of surfactants, which is correct for a hair conditioner.

The main ingredients include:

Cetrimonium Chloride: A key ingredient for hair conditioning, making hair soft and detangled.
Vitamin B5, Natural Moisturizing Amino Acids, Glycerin, Pure Keratin: A group of ingredients that nourish and moisturize hair, especially helpful for dry, colored hair.
Jojoba Oil: A natural oil that helps coat and condition the hair.
emulPearl™ (Cream/Lotion type) and Light Cream Maker: Ingredients that help create the cream texture and stabilize the formula.

Hair Conditioner Mixing Steps (Following Cream Making Principles):

Water Phase: Combine all water-soluble ingredients (Water, Cetrimonium Chloride, Vitamin B5, Natural Moisturizing Amino Acids, Glycerin, Pure Keratin) in container 1. Heat this phase to approximately 70-80°C.
Oil Phase: Combine the oil and oil-soluble ingredients (Jojoba Oil, emulPearl™ (Cream/Lotion type), Light Cream Maker) in container 2. Heat this phase to approximately 70-80°C until solid ingredients are fully melted and the phase is clear.
Emulsification: Slowly pour the oil phase (container 2) into the water phase (container 1) in a thin stream while continuously blending with a high-shear mixer (like a hand blender) until a stable, smooth white cream emulsion forms. Reduce the mixing speed and continue mixing while the formula cools down to below 40°C.
Add Heat-Sensitive Ingredients: Once the formula has cooled below 40°C, add the preservative and fragrance. Mix until fully incorporated.
Package the conditioner.

Yes, you can increase the Light Cream Maker to 3-4% or even higher if you desire a thicker conditioner consistency, provided it does not negatively impact the stability or feel of the product.

I hope this advice is helpful for making your shampoo and conditioner!