Gentle Shampoo Formulation: Addressing Cloudiness and Separation

Asked by: suppaluk.rom On: July 13, 2023 Product Type: Cosmetics

Question

How to adjust a gentle shampoo formula using Amino Wash, Baby Foam, Guar hydroxytrimonium chloride, and Sugar Thick which results in cloudiness, insufficient viscosity, and phase separation, to achieve a clearer, more viscous, and stable product that does not separate, including the correct formula modifications and mixing procedure?

Answer

Suggested Formula Adjustments

To improve clarity, viscosity, and stability, consider the following adjustments to your formula:

  • Reduce Guar hydroxytrimonium chloride: Lowering the concentration of the cationic polymer can significantly reduce incompatibility issues with the anionic surfactants.
  • Increase Sugar Thick: A slightly higher concentration of your chosen thickener should help achieve the desired viscosity.
  • Increase EDTA: While 0.1% is the minimum recommended for Amino Wash and Baby Foam, increasing it slightly can provide better chelation and overall formula stability, helping to prevent potential hardening or settling of the surfactants.

Here is a suggested revised formula based on your original one:

  1. Water: q.s. to 100%
  2. Amino Wash: 10 %
  3. Baby Foam: 5%
  4. Glycerin: 3%
  5. Propylene Glycol: 2 %
  6. Sugar Thick: 2.0 - 2.5% (Increase from 1.5%)
  7. Mild Preservative: 1%
  8. Fragrance: 0.3%
  9. Guar hydroxytrimonium chloride: 0.1% (Reduce from 0.2%)
  10. EDTA: 0.2% (Increase from 0.1%)
  11. Citric Acid Solution (for pH adjustment): q.s.

Revised Mixing Procedure

The order of adding ingredients is crucial for achieving a stable and clear shampoo, especially when combining different types of ingredients.

  1. Prepare the Water Phase: In a clean beaker, add the required amount of Water.
  2. Add EDTA: Add Disodium EDTA to the water and stir until it is completely dissolved. Using purified water (like distilled or RO water) is recommended. If using tap water, warming slightly can help dissolve the EDTA.
  3. Incorporate Thickener: Add Sugar Thick to the water phase. If Sugar Thick is in flake form, you may need to warm the water phase to 50-60°C and stir until it dissolves and the mixture starts to thicken. Alternatively, you can warm the Sugar Thick separately until it becomes liquid before adding it to the water phase while stirring. Stir gently until the desired viscosity begins to develop.
  4. Add Humectants: Add Glycerin and Propylene Glycol to the thickened water phase and stir until well combined.
  5. Add Surfactants: Gently add Amino Wash and Baby Foam to the mixture. Stir slowly and carefully to minimize foaming. Ensure the surfactants are fully dispersed and dissolved.
  6. Add Guar Gum: In a separate small container, disperse the Guar hydroxytrimonium chloride in a small amount of water (taken from the total water amount). Add this slurry very slowly to the main shampoo mixture while stirring gently. This step is critical; adding the cationic polymer too quickly or with insufficient stirring can cause clumping and cloudiness.
  7. Adjust pH: Check the pH of the mixture using a pH meter or pH strips. For shampoo, a pH between 5.0 and 6.0 is ideal for hair health and formula stability. Slowly add drops of a Citric Acid solution (e.g., 20-30% in water) while stirring gently and re-checking the pH until the desired range is reached. pH adjustment is vital for the compatibility of the ingredients and the performance of the preservative.
  8. Cool Down: Once the pH is adjusted, let the mixture cool down to below 45°C if you heated it earlier.
  9. Add Preservative and Fragrance: Add the Mild Preservative COS and Fragrance to the cooled mixture. Stir gently until fully incorporated.
  10. Finalize: Stir gently for a few more minutes to ensure homogeneity. Allow the shampoo to sit undisturbed for several hours or overnight. This resting period helps any trapped air bubbles to escape and allows the viscosity to stabilize.

By reducing the amount of Guar hydroxytrimonium chloride, increasing the Sugar Thick, ensuring sufficient EDTA, and following a careful mixing procedure with pH adjustment, you should be able to achieve a clearer, more viscous, and stable shampoo that does not separate.