Gentle Waterproof Makeup Remover Formulation: Glycerin Soap Base vs. Alternatives

Asked by: chaorin1 On: November 10, 2016 Product Type: Cosmetics

Question

I want to create a gentle cleansing soap that can remove waterproof makeup. I tried using a glycerin soap base with added natural oils and vitamins, but it wasn't effective for makeup removal. I'm interested in adding MakeUp-Wash™ (PEG-6 Caprylic/Capric Glycerides) to this glycerin soap formula. Is this suitable, and what are the best ways to formulate a gentle, waterproof makeup remover?

Answer

Hello,

I understand that you want to make a gentle cleansing soap that can remove waterproof makeup. You've tried a formula using a glycerin soap base, oils, and vitamins, but it wasn't effective at removing makeup, and you are interested in adding MakeUp-Wash™ to it.

As the staff mentioned, glycerin soap bases typically have a very high pH (9-10), which is not suitable for facial cleansing. Even adding natural oils doesn't significantly lower the alkalinity. Our skin's pH is slightly acidic (around 5-6), and using products with a much higher pH can weaken the skin barrier and cause irritation. This could be one reason why your current formula isn't meeting your needs for gentleness and may not effectively dissolve waterproof makeup, which often contains oils and waxes.

Regarding MakeUp-Wash™ (PEG-6 Caprylic/Capric Glycerides), it is an extra gentle surfactant that forms micellar structures when mixed with water. These micelles are effective at attracting and dissolving makeup, dirt, and excess oil from the skin and pores thoroughly without drying the skin; instead, they provide a moisturizing effect (re-fatting). MakeUp-Wash™ has high purity, resulting in lower irritation compared to other PEG-6/PEG-7 Micellar types.

Based on the staff's advice and the description of MakeUp-Wash™, this ingredient is suitable for use in gentle bases like water (for micellar water) or in cleansing oil or balm formulations. Adding it to a high-pH glycerin soap base is strongly not recommended.

If you are looking for a product that can effectively remove waterproof makeup in one step while remaining gentle, I recommend considering other types of cleansing formulations instead of a bar soap. Examples include:

  • Cleansing Oil: Uses oil as the primary base to dissolve waterproof makeup. It may contain a small amount of gentle surfactant. When massaged onto dry skin with makeup, the oil dissolves the makeup, and then it emulsifies into a milky texture when water is added, making it easy to rinse off.
  • Cleansing Balm: Similar to cleansing oil but has a thicker balm or sherbet texture. It is used similarly by warming it in your hands and massaging it onto dry skin.
  • Micellar Water: Uses micellar particles to attract dirt and makeup. It is often used with a cotton pad to wipe off makeup, but some formulas can also be rinsed off with water.

MakeUp-Wash™ (PEG-6 Caprylic/Capric Glycerides) is a popular ingredient in cleansing oils or micellar waters to enhance cleansing performance and ease of rinsing. A simple example of using MakeUp-Wash™ in a micellar water formula is to use about 3-5% MakeUp-Wash™ mixed with water and potentially adding an emollient like Glycerin or Butylene Glycol at 5-10%.

To provide more specific recommendations, could you let me know which type of cleanser you might be interested in trying to make (e.g., cleansing oil or micellar water), or if you would like help finding other ingredients suitable for gentle, waterproof makeup removers?

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