Grey Hair Reduction Spray Formulation & Preservation

Asked by: kanyarach On: December 19, 2022 Product Type: Cosmetics

Question

Is the proposed formula for a grey hair reduction spray (containing MSH Black, GreyReverse, Panthenol, Keratin, and water) feasible, and what is the best preservative to use, considering ingredient compatibility, pH, and stability?

Answer

Grey Hair Reduction Spray Formula Assessment

Your formula includes active ingredients commonly used in hair care targeting grey hair and hair strength:

  • MSH Black™ (Acetyl Hexapeptide-1) 5%
  • GreyReverse™ (Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-20) 5%
  • Panthenol (Pro Vitamin B5, DL- Panthenol, Powder) 3% (Note: The powder form is likely Pantolactone, a precursor to Panthenol)
  • Pure Keratin™ (Natural, Australian Sheep Wool) 2%
  • Water 84%
  • Preservative 1%

The percentages add up correctly. The usage rates for MSH Black™ and GreyReverse™ at 5% are within the recommended range for hair spray applications according to the product information. Panthenol (as Pantolactone) and Pure Keratin™ are also included at typical levels for hair benefit.

Feasibility and Considerations:

  1. Ingredient Compatibility: The ingredients are generally compatible in a water-based system. However, both MSH Black™ and GreyReverse™ peptides are sensitive to heat and should be added during the cool-down phase of your formulation process (below 45°C is a safe general guideline, although product descriptions specify "do not expose to heat"). Pure Keratin™ is stable at room temperature but should also be protected from excessive heat and sunlight.
  2. pH Range: Pure Keratin™ has a pH range of 4.5-6.5. The final pH of your formula will likely fall within or near this range, depending on the other ingredients and the chosen preservative. It's important to check the final pH and ensure it is suitable for the stability and efficacy of all ingredients, especially the peptides and the preservative.
  3. MSH Black™ Specific Note: The product description for MSH Black™ mentions that if developing a product to reduce hair greying, it should ideally be in a form that avoids contact with skin that you don't want to darken. This is because MSH Black™ stimulates melanin production in both hair and skin. Using it in a spray form may cause droplets to fall onto the scalp or surrounding skin, potentially leading to unintended skin darkening in those areas.
  4. Mechanism of Action: Remember that peptides like MSH Black™ and GreyReverse™ work by stimulating pigmentation in new hair growth. They will not typically reverse greying in existing hair. Consistent use over several months is usually required to see visible results as new, pigmented hair grows in.
  5. Storage: MSH Black™ and GreyReverse™ require refrigeration (around 5°C) for long-term storage to maintain stability. Pure Keratin™ can be stored at room temperature, but protected from heat/sunlight. The final product's storage recommendation should follow the most sensitive ingredient.

Preservative Choice:

Since your formula is water-based, a preservative is absolutely essential to prevent microbial contamination and ensure product safety and shelf life. Choosing the right preservative depends on the final pH of your formula and compatibility with the ingredients (especially peptides and protein).

Based on the product information available, here are a few options to consider for your 1% preservative:

  • Mild Preserved™ COS (Product ID 33939): This is a broad-spectrum, water-soluble preservative blend (Phenoxyethanol, Chlorphenesin, Caprylyl Glycol) that works effectively in a wide pH range of 2-8. This range is likely suitable for your formula's expected pH. It should be added during the cool-down phase (below 45°C).
  • NaturePreserve™ Ultra (Product ID 520): This natural preservative blend (Gluconolactone & Sodium Benzoate) works in a pH range of 3-6. If your final formula pH is within this range (or can be adjusted to it), this could be a suitable option. It is acidic and may lower your formula's pH. It is also heat tolerant.
  • Preserve-BSB™ (Product ID 127176): This blend (Benzyl Alcohol, Sodium Benzoate, Potassium Sorbate) is effective up to pH 5.5. It might be too restrictive on pH depending on your final formula. It's effective against fungi and dissolves in water. Max temperature during mixing is below 80°C.
  • Ethylhexylglycerin (Product ID 642): While a gentle ingredient with some preservative boosting properties, Ethylhexylglycerin is not suitable for use as a single preservative. It needs to be combined with other preservatives to provide broad-spectrum protection.

Recommendation: Mild Preserved™ COS (Product ID 33939) seems like a strong candidate due to its broad pH compatibility, which is important when working with ingredients like Keratin that influence pH. NaturePreserve™ Ultra (Product ID 520) is another good option if your pH is confirmed to be within its effective range (3-6).

Crucial Step: Regardless of which preservative you choose, you must perform a challenge test on your final formula. This laboratory test confirms that the preservative system is effective at preventing microbial growth in your specific product formulation under realistic conditions. This is essential for product safety and stability before selling or distributing the product.

In summary, your formula is generally feasible in terms of ingredient types and percentages, but pay close attention to mixing temperatures for the peptides and consider the potential for unintended skin darkening from MSH Black™ in a spray format. Select a preservative compatible with your final pH and ingredients, and always validate its effectiveness with a challenge test.