Hair Formulation Stability and Grey Coverage

It appears you are trying to create a hair formulation using several ingredients, including Ethyl Alcohol, a black pigment (likely CI 77499, such as SI-2 BLACK BL-100), a styling agent (Easy hair style), Phenyl Trimethicone (Silicone Shine), Dimethicone, and fragrance. The issue you're encountering with separation and settling is common when working with pigments, as they need to be properly dispersed and kept suspended in the liquid base.

Here's a breakdown of the issues and potential solutions:

Why is it separating and settling?

Pigments like CI 77499 are solid particles that do not dissolve in liquids. In a mixture containing ingredients with different solubilities (like alcohol, silicones, and potentially water from other components), these pigment particles can easily clump together and settle over time if not properly stabilized.

How to prevent separation and settling:

To create a stable dispersion and prevent settling, you need to incorporate dispersing agents and anti-settling additives into your formula. Products like BYK 185 (a dispersing agent) and BYK 410 (an anti-settling additive) are designed specifically for this purpose in solvent-based systems, which your formula seems to be leaning towards with the inclusion of Ethyl Alcohol and silicones.

• Dispersing Agent (e.g., BYK 185): Helps to wet the pigment particles and break up clumps, ensuring they are finely and evenly distributed in the liquid phase during mixing.
• Anti-Settling Additive (e.g., BYK 410): Creates a network or structure within the liquid that holds the dispersed particles in suspension, preventing them from settling to the bottom over time.

Improving Grey Coverage and Longevity:

For covering grey hair and ensuring the color lasts longer, especially with semi-permanent pigments like CI 77499, consider using ColorFix™. This ingredient has cationic properties that help the color adhere better to the hair shaft, reducing wash-off and improving color retention.

Recommended Approach and Formula Considerations:

Instead of starting from scratch with raw ingredients, a more stable approach for a semi-permanent hair color formulation might be to use a pre-made base designed for this purpose, such as a Semi-Permanent Hair Colorant base (like the Natural Black version). You can then incorporate your desired additives and functional ingredients into this base.

A general approach could involve:

1. Start with a suitable base (e.g., Semi-Permanent Hair Colorant base).
2. Properly disperse the pigment (SI-2 BLACK BL-100) using a dispersing agent (BYK 185) in a compatible solvent or part of the base before adding it to the main mixture.
3. Add anti-settling additive (BYK 410) to the base to help maintain the pigment suspension.
4. Incorporate silicones like Silicone Shine Max15™ (Phenyl Trimethicone) and Dimethicone for shine and feel. Ensure they are compatible with your base or use appropriate emulsifiers if needed.
5. Add ColorFix™ to improve color adhesion and longevity.
6. Add fragrance.

Regarding the percentage for covering grey hair, the required concentration of the black pigment (SI-2 BLACK BL-100) will depend on the desired intensity and the base formulation. There isn't a single percentage that works for all formulas. You would typically start with a recommended usage rate for the pigment and adjust based on testing to achieve satisfactory grey coverage. Using ColorFix™ at its recommended rate (up to 5% in conditioner/treatment type formulas) will significantly help the color stay on the hair.

Formulating stable suspensions requires careful selection of ingredients, proper mixing techniques, and often the use of specific additives like dispersants and anti-settling agents. Using a pre-formulated base can simplify the process significantly.