Hair Conditioner Formulation: Addressing Separation, Texture, and Bubbles

Asked by: tapakonn On: November 13, 2017 Product Type: Cosmetics

Question

I am formulating a hair conditioner and encountering several issues. Could you please advise on the following points?

  • My formula separates after about a week, and small bubbles appear before separation. How can I improve stability?
  • I want a thick texture that is not sticky or too viscous for bottling. What ingredients or adjustments can help achieve this?
  • How can I reduce the formation of small bubbles in the formula, especially if I don't have a vacuum mixer?
  • Does the mixing speed or time affect the final viscosity of the conditioner?
  • Can I add CTAC later in the process (around 40°C) instead of heating it initially? What is the best way to ensure it dissolves completely?
  • Is Willow Bark Extract compatible with this type of formula, and how should it be incorporated?

Answer

Based on the feedback regarding your hair conditioner formulation issues:

  • Separation: The separation after about a week, accompanied by bubble formation, suggests a potential issue with the stability or emulsification of the formula. The staff recommends adding Butter Cream Maker (2%) to improve stability. It should be heated to 70°C and mixed with the oil phase ingredients (CTAC, BTAC, Cetyl Alcohol).
  • Desired Texture (Thick but not sticky/viscous): To achieve a texture that is thick but still easy to bottle, the staff advises replacing Cetyl Alcohol with Shea Butter. Shea Butter has a minimal effect on viscosity. Adding Glyceryl Steearate SE is not recommended as it will increase thickness.
  • Reducing Bubbles: If you are not using a vacuum mixer, incorporating an oil (like Shea Butter) or a Silicone (such as Dimethicone Light, Low-Odor at 5%) can help reduce the formation of small bubbles.
  • Mixing Speed: The staff clarified that mixing speed does not control the final viscosity; this is determined by the ingredients in your formula. Adjusting the formula composition is the correct way to achieve the desired thickness.
  • Adding CTAC Later: You can add CTAC later in the process (around 40°C) instead of heating it initially. This can help achieve your preferred texture, but ensure thorough mixing to ensure it dissolves completely.
  • Willow Bark Extract: Adding Willow Bark Extract is compatible with this type of formula. Add it to the water phase, avoiding high heat, ideally during the cooling phase (around 40°C) while mixing.