Hair Oil Formulation: Texture, Stability, and Clarity

Asked by: dharmaamm On: September 10, 2018 Product Type: Cosmetics

Question

I am developing a leave-in hair oil formula intended to be light, clear, and provide softening and smoothing benefits. The formula includes Fractionated Coconut Oil, Sweet Almond Oil, Olive CLEAR, SiliSolve Plus, Poly-Conditioner Pro, fragrance, and water. I am currently mixing the ingredients by hand. I have the following questions/issues:

  • Why is the texture heavy and sticky? How can I make it lighter?
  • Is hand stirring sufficient, or will the formula separate?
  • Will Poly-Conditioner Pro cause a strong odor?
  • How can I achieve a clear consistency?

Answer

Subject: Advice on Hair Oil Formulation

Thank you for your question regarding your hair oil formulation. Based on your goal for a light, clear, leave-in oil that softens and smooths hair, and the feedback provided:

  1. Mixing Method: As the staff mentioned, hand stirring is not sufficient for this formula, especially with SiliSolve Plus. You will need to use a blender to ensure proper emulsification and prevent separation.
  2. Texture (Heaviness/Stickiness): The staff indicated that this formula might be quite heavy for a leave-in product. Your formula contains a total of 30% natural oils (Fractionated Coconut Oil, Sweet Almond Oil, Olive CLEAR) plus other conditioning agents. While these ingredients are beneficial, the total concentration might contribute to a heavier, potentially sticky feel when used as a leave-in.
    • Adjustment for Lighter Feel: To make the formula lighter, you could try reducing the total percentage of the oil phase. For example, instead of 10% of each oil, you could try 5% of each, bringing the total oil phase down to 15%. You might need to adjust the water percentage accordingly (increase water to 100% minus other ingredients). Reducing the oil content will generally result in a less heavy feel.
  3. Smell: Poly-Conditioner Pro has a slight inherent smell, but at 2%, it is unlikely to cause a strong, pungent odor in the final product, especially with fragrance added.
  4. Separation Risk: Yes, the formula is highly likely to separate if only hand-stirred. Blending is essential to create a stable emulsion with SiliSolve Plus.

Regarding the "clear" aspect: Your current formula is an emulsion (oil and water mixed with an emulsifier). Emulsions are typically opaque or translucent, not truly clear like a pure oil or silicone blend. Achieving a truly clear product usually requires a different type of formulation, such as a high percentage of specific silicones (like Cyclomethicone) or using specialized solubilizers (like Oil Blender) to create a clear solution or microemulsion, which can be more complex. With the current formula structure, it is unlikely to be perfectly clear.

In summary, to improve your formula for a lighter feel and stability:

  • Use a blender for mixing.
  • Consider reducing the percentage of the natural oils (e.g., reduce each from 10% to 5%) to decrease heaviness.
  • Be aware that achieving a truly clear product might require a different formulation approach than the current emulsion type.