Hair Pomade Emulsion Formulation and Mixing

Question

I am developing a hair pomade emulsion formula containing ingredients such as waxes (like Synthetic White Beeswax, Candelilla Wax, Microcrystalline Wax, Cetearyl Alcohol), Paste Maker™ (Ceteareth-25), film formers (PVP-K90, Easy Hair Styler (8 Hr.)), and a preservative (Phenoxyethanol). Are these ingredients compatible in an emulsion formula? What is the correct mixing procedure, particularly concerning the high melting points of waxes/Paste Maker™ and the heat sensitivity of Easy Hair Styler (8 Hr.)? Can I use both PVP-K90 and Easy Hair Styler (8 Hr.) together as film formers, and will this combination improve the hair hold performance? What is the optimal pH range for the stability of this pomade formula?

MySkinRecipes Expert · Accepted Answer

Pomade Emulsion Formula Feedback

Based on the formula provided and the feedback from the staff, here are the answers to your questions:

Formula Compatibility: The staff confirms that the ingredients in your formula are compatible. However, the mixing process can be somewhat complex due to the different temperature requirements of the ingredients. Ingredients like Ceteareth-25 and the various waxes (Synthetic White Beeswax, Candelilla Wax, Microcrystalline Wax, and Cetearyl Alcohol) require high heat (around 90-100°C) to melt completely in the oil phase. In contrast, Easy Hair Styler (8 Hr.) is heat-sensitive and should not be exposed to temperatures above 40°C.
- Adjustment: No ingredients need to be removed, but the mixing procedure is crucial.
Using Two Film Formers: Yes, using both PVP-K90 and Easy Hair Styler (8 Hr.) as film formers in the formula is beneficial. The staff confirms that combining these two ingredients will help to increase the duration of the hair hold.
Mixing Procedure (Pouring Phase): The staff recommends heating the oil phase (containing Ceteareth-25 and the waxes) to a high temperature (around 90-100°C) to ensure all waxes melt completely. After melting, allow the oil phase to cool down somewhat before adding the water phase to the oil phase while stirring. The heat-sensitive ingredients from Phase A, particularly Easy Hair Styler (8 Hr.), and Phase C (Phenoxyethanol) should be added in the final step after the emulsion has cooled significantly (below 40°C for Easy Hair Styler and below 60°C for Phenoxyethanol) to avoid degrading them.
Optimal pH: The staff indicates that the formula will naturally have a neutral pH, which is suitable for stability. No pH adjustment is necessary for this formula.

In summary, your formula is workable, but pay close attention to the mixing temperatures and the order of adding ingredients, especially the heat-sensitive ones, to ensure the best results and stability. The combination of PVP-K90 and Easy Hair Styler (8 Hr.) will provide enhanced hold for the hair pomade.