Hair Root Nourishing Serum Formulation: Oil/Silicone Base and Water-Soluble Actives

Asked by: natwadee.jb On: October 15, 2014 Product Type: Cosmetics

Question

I am developing a hair root nourishing serum. I plan to use a base formula consisting of Cyclopentasiloxane, Dimethicone, Fractionated Coconut Oil, and Vitamin E.

  • Is this base suitable for a hair serum?
  • Will these ingredients mix well together to form a single phase?
  • How can I use carriers (like Fractionated Coconut Oil, CocoSilk™, or C15-19 Alkane) to help active ingredients penetrate the scalp better?
  • Will active ingredients (such as Minoxol™ or Hair-Prebiotic™) dissolve and mix into this oil/silicone base?

Answer

Hair Root Nourishing Serum Formulation

Hello! It's great you're working on a hair root nourishing serum project. Let's break down your questions based on the ingredients you mentioned and how formulations work.

Your Proposed Formula Base

Your idea to use Cyclopentasiloxane, Dimethicone, Coconut Oil, and Vitamin E is a good starting point for a hair serum. These ingredients are commonly used and offer several benefits:

  • Cyclopentasiloxane and Dimethicone: These are silicones that provide a smooth, silky feel to the hair and scalp without feeling greasy. They help spread the product evenly and can give a temporary conditioning effect.
  • Fractionated Coconut Oil: This is a lightweight oil that is easily absorbed. It can help nourish the hair and scalp and acts as a good base for dissolving other oil-soluble ingredients.
  • Vitamin E: This is an antioxidant that can help protect the scalp and hair from environmental damage.

This combination will mix well together because they are all oil-soluble or silicones that are compatible with oils, forming a clear, non-greasy serum texture.

Carrier for Active Ingredients

You asked about using a carrier to help active substances penetrate better. In your proposed oil/silicone base, ingredients like Fractionated Coconut Oil, CocoSilk™ (Coco-Caprylate/Caprate), or C15-19 Alkane can act as carriers for oil-soluble active ingredients. They help dissolve and deliver these actives to the scalp surface and provide a pleasant feel.

Cyclopentasiloxane also helps with the spreadability and light feel, which can indirectly help distribute actives on the scalp.

Mixing Carrier Oils and Ingredients

Regarding whether they will mix into a single phase: Yes, the ingredients you listed (Cyclopentasiloxane, Dimethicone, Fractionated Coconut Oil, Vitamin E) and the suggested carriers like CocoSilk™ and C15-19 Alkane are all miscible with each other. They will blend together to form a homogeneous oil/silicone serum.

However, there is a crucial point regarding active ingredients:

Many effective active ingredients for hair root nourishment (such as Minoxol™ or Hair-Prebiotic™, which were found in the search) are water-soluble. Your proposed base is oil/silicone-based (anhydrous, meaning without water).

  • Water-soluble active ingredients will NOT dissolve or mix into your oil/silicone base.

To incorporate water-soluble active ingredients into your serum, you would need to create an emulsion (like a serum milk or lotion) using an emulsifier to bind the oil/silicone phase with a water phase containing the water-soluble actives. Alternatively, you might need a different solvent system (e.g., alcohol/water mix) depending on the specific active ingredient's solubility.

In summary: Your proposed base is suitable for an oil/silicone serum and will mix well. It can carry oil-soluble actives. But if your desired active ingredients are water-soluble, this base formula will need significant modification to become an emulsion to incorporate them effectively.

Consider the solubility of the specific active ingredients you plan to use when designing your final formula. Good luck with your project!