Hair Serum Formula Review for Softness & Smoothness

Asked by: annsakul On: April 10, 2023 Product Type: Cosmetics

Question

Request for review and recommendations on a specific hair serum formula to optimize for hair softness and smoothness, including potential adjustments to ingredient percentages.

Answer

Formula Analysis

Your formula contains the following ingredients:

Part A

  • Water
  • Glycerin
  • KeraQuat™
  • Magnesium Sulfate
  • CTAC
  • Panthenol (Vitamin B5) ExtraLite

Part B

  • Hair Silk
  • Silicone Shine Max™
  • Cyclopentasiloxane
  • Amodimethicone
  • SiliSolve ™
  • Mild Preserved Eco
  • Fragrance

The total percentage of the listed ingredients is 80.26%. Assuming the remaining percentage is Water, the adjusted Water amount would be 19.74% to reach a total of 100%.

  • Conditioning Agents: Ingredients like KeraQuat™, CTAC (Cetrimonium Chloride), Hair Silk, Cyclopentasiloxane, and Amodimethicone are excellent for hair conditioning.
    • Silicones (Hair Silk, Silicone Shine Max™, Cyclopentasiloxane, Amodimethicone): These form a film on the hair surface, providing slip, softness, shine, and reducing friction. The high total percentage of silicones (around 56% if using your listed amounts) is the main contributor to the smooth and soft feel. Cyclopentasiloxane provides a light, dry feel and helps spread other silicones, while Amodimethicone offers more durable conditioning benefits. Hair Silk and Silicone Shine Max™ are specialized silicones likely enhancing the feel and shine.
    • Cationic Agents (KeraQuat™, CTAC): These positively charged ingredients are attracted to the negatively charged surface of damaged hair, helping to smooth the cuticle, reduce static, and improve detangling and softness. KeraQuat™ is a keratin derivative that can help improve the feel of damaged hair.
  • Humectants (Glycerin, Panthenol): These ingredients attract and hold moisture, helping to hydrate the hair and improve elasticity.
  • Emulsifier (SiliSolve™): SiliSolve™ (PEG-10 Dimethicone) is a water-to-silicone binder, essential for creating a stable emulsion that combines the water phase with the high percentage of silicones in your formula. The presence of Magnesium Sulfate can also help stabilize this type of emulsion.
  • Preservative (Mild Preserved Eco): Ensures the product remains free from microbial contamination.
  • Fragrance: Provides scent.

Recommendations

Your current formula is already quite rich in ingredients that promote softness and smoothness. Here are some points to consider for potential adjustments:

  1. Silicone Level: The combined silicone percentage is very high. While this maximizes softness and shine, it could potentially lead to a heavy feel or build-up over time for some hair types. If you find the serum feels too heavy or greasy upon testing, you could consider slightly reducing the total silicone content, perhaps by lowering the percentage of Hair Silk or Silicone Shine Max™, or adjusting the ratio of volatile (Cyclopentasiloxane) to non-volatile silicones. However, if maximum smoothness is the goal and the feel is acceptable, the current level is effective.
  2. CTAC Level: 1% CTAC is a standard and effective level for conditioning. Increasing it might provide more conditioning but also increase the risk of build-up. Decreasing it would reduce conditioning. The current level seems appropriate for a serum focused on softness.
  3. Magnesium Sulfate: Ensure the Magnesium Sulfate is fully dissolved in the water phase before combining with the silicone phase containing SiliSolve™. This helps ensure emulsion stability.
  4. Emulsification Process: Follow the recommended mixing procedure for SiliSolve™, which typically involves adding the water phase slowly to the silicone phase with continuous mixing, to ensure a stable emulsion.
  5. Testing: The best way to optimize is to make a small batch of the formula as written (adjusting water to 19.74%) and test its performance and feel on hair. Based on the results, you can decide if you need to adjust any percentages. For example, if it's not smooth enough, you could slightly increase a key silicone like Amodimethicone or Hair Silk. If it's too heavy, reduce total silicones.

In summary, your formula is well-constructed for a highly conditioning hair serum. The combination of multiple silicones and cationic ingredients provides a strong foundation for achieving soft and smooth hair. The percentages are high enough to be effective. Adjustments would primarily be based on the desired final feel and performance after testing.