Hair Serum Formulation: Achieving a Light, Non-Sticky Texture

Question

I am developing a liquid, clear, slippery, non-sticky hair serum for frizz control. I have some questions regarding potential ingredients and formulation aspects: If I use a high percentage of oil, such as 94% Olive Oil, will it result in a light, non-sticky texture? Is Panthenol (Vitamin B5) ExtraLite™ compatible with oil? What are the differences and suitable uses for Cyclomethicone (or Cyclohexasiloxane) and Dimethicone in a hair serum? What type of preservative is needed for this kind of formula? What is the function of Quaternium-82 in a hair serum? Can Olive Oil be used as a substitute for Bergamot Oil?

MySkinRecipes Expert · Accepted Answer

Hair Serum Formulation Advice

Based on your questions and the previous discussion, here is a summary and a suggested formula for a light, non-sticky hair serum:

Suggested Formula (Water-Based)

The staff suggested a water-based formula which aligns well with your desired texture (liquid, clear, slippery, non-sticky). Here is the formula:

Water: 94%
Silicone Hi-Cond (Aminopropyl Dimethicone): 5% (Conditioning Agent)
Phenoxyethanol SA: 1% (Preservative)

How to make: Mix all ingredients together until clear and uniform.

Optional Additions for extra nourishment:

Vitamin B5 (Panthenol): Add 1%
Pure Keratin: Add 0.5-1.0%

This formula uses Water as the base, Silicone Hi-Cond to provide the desired slip and conditioning without being heavy, and Phenoxyethanol SA as the necessary preservative for a water-based product.

Addressing Your Questions:

Base: While Olive Oil is a great moisturizer, using it as the primary base (94%) would result in a heavy, potentially greasy serum, not the light, non-sticky texture you desire. The suggested water-based formula with a conditioning silicone is more suitable.
Panthenol (Vitamin B5) ExtraLite™ compatibility with oil: Panthenol is generally water-soluble. In an oil-based formula, it would require an emulsifier to incorporate properly. In the suggested water-based formula, Panthenol (like Vitamin B5) is easily dissolved and provides moisturizing benefits.
Cyclomethicone vs. Dimethicone: Both are silicones used in hair products for slip and conditioning. Cyclomethicone (often a blend including Cyclohexasiloxane) is generally lighter and more volatile than Dimethicone, evaporating quickly and leaving a less heavy feel. Dimethicone comes in various viscosities; lower viscosity ones are lighter than higher viscosity ones. You can use either or a blend depending on the desired feel. The suggested formula uses Silicone Hi-Cond (Aminopropyl Dimethicone), which is another type of conditioning silicone suitable for water-based systems, providing excellent slip and conditioning.
Preservative: For the suggested water-based formula, Phenoxyethanol SA at 1% is included as the recommended preservative.
Quaternium-82: As the staff explained, Quaternium-82 is a conditioning agent that helps to coat the hair, providing softness and slip, similar in function to Polyquaternium-7 or Polyquaternium-10.
Substituting Olive Oil for Bergamot Oil: These oils have very different properties and uses. Bergamot Oil is an essential oil typically used at low concentrations (1-2%) primarily for fragrance and potentially some scalp/hair benefits at low levels. Olive Oil is a carrier oil used for moisturizing and emollience, usually at higher concentrations. Substituting Olive Oil for Bergamot Oil would change the formula significantly, making it much heavier and altering the scent completely. In a light serum, especially water-based, Olive Oil is not a direct substitute for the role of Bergamot Oil.

This water-based formula should give you a light, slippery, non-sticky serum that helps control frizz. You can try this base formula and then experiment with adding Vitamin B5 or Keratin for extra benefits.