Hair Treatment Formula Development with Keratin and Silk

Asked by: arthitathom On: January 26, 2021 Product Type: Cosmetics

Question

I would like to ask about developing a hair treatment formula. If I want to use KeraStraight™ (for hair straightening) in this formula and mix in Hydrolyzed Keratin (Powder) and Hydrolyzed Silk, is that possible?

Example formula:

  1. BTAC 3%
  2. Cetearyl Alcohol 3%
  3. Silicone Hi-Cond 1%
  4. Vitamin B5 1%
  5. Poly-Conditioner Eco 1%
  6. KeraStraight™ 20%
  7. Mild Preserved Eco 1%
  8. Water to 100%

Mixing procedure: Mix 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, heat to 70-80°C, let cool to below 40°C, then add 6 and blend.

Can this formula be used only as a hair mask without the need for heat straightening?

Are there any other ingredients you recommend for hair to show improvement from the first use?

Regarding the price of 1990 Baht, how much volume of the secret formula is produced? Does the company offer test/clinical trials, perhaps with additional cost? Will I receive documentation for the copyright of the formula produced?

Answer

Hair Treatment Formula Development

Adding Hydrolyzed Keratin and Hydrolyzed Silk

Yes, you can add Hydrolyzed Keratin (Powder) and Hydrolyzed Silk Protein to your formula. Both are beneficial proteins for hair, helping to nourish, repair, and strengthen the hair shaft.

  • Hydrolyzed Keratin (Powder) is known for restoring hair damaged by chemical treatments or heat, helping it regain strength, moisture, and shine. It can also help permed hair hold its shape better.
  • Hydrolyzed Silk Protein (like the High Nitrogen or Deodorized powder types) provides amino acids that can help replace those missing in damaged hair, suitable for use in hair treatments to improve hair condition.

Both Hydrolyzed Keratin (Powder) and Hydrolyzed Silk Protein are water-soluble and can be mixed into the water phase of your formula.

Important Consideration: Both powder protein ingredients are natural and require an effective preservative system to prevent microbial growth. Your formula already includes Mild Preserved Eco, which is a preservative blend. Ensure the concentration of Mild Preserved Eco is sufficient for the addition of these natural ingredients, especially if adding them at higher percentages. A challenge test is recommended for the final formula.

Regarding the mixing steps you provided:

  1. Mix BTAC, Cetearyl Alcohol, Silicone Hi-Cond, Vitamin B5, Poly-Conditioner Eco, Mild Preserved Eco, and Water. Heat to 70-80°C.
  2. Let cool to below 40°C.
  3. Add KeraStraight™ and blend.

You can add the Hydrolyzed Keratin (Powder) and Hydrolyzed Silk Protein to the water phase in step 1 before heating, or you can dissolve them in a small amount of the water phase separately and add them along with KeraStraight™ in step 3, ensuring the temperature is below 40°C as KeraStraight™ should avoid heat exceeding 40°C during mixing. Adding them in step 3 might be preferable to minimize heat exposure to the proteins, although they can generally withstand short-term heat.

Using the Formula Without Heat Straightening

The primary function of KeraStraight™ is to straighten hair, and its description explicitly states that using a hair straightener at 200-230°C is required for it to work effectively. The process involves applying the product, blow-drying, and then straightening with heat.

If you use this formula only as a hair mask without the heat straightening step, you will still get conditioning and nourishing benefits from the other ingredients in the formula, such as:

  • BTAC and Cetearyl Alcohol: Provide conditioning, smoothing, and thickening.
  • Silicone Hi-Cond (Bis-Aminopropyl Dimethicone): A highly effective conditioner for softening hair.
  • Vitamin B5 (Panthenol): Provides moisture and helps improve hair health and shine.
  • Poly-Conditioner Eco (Polyquaternium-7): Acts as a conditioning agent, providing softness and manageability.

However, without the required heat from a hair straightener, the KeraStraight™ component will not perform its hair straightening function. The formula will act as a deep conditioner or mask, but not a straightening treatment.

Other Recommended Ingredients for Immediate Results

Your current formula already contains several ingredients known to provide immediate improvements in hair feel and appearance:

  • BTAC and Cetearyl Alcohol: These form the base of many conditioners and masks, providing detangling, softness, and slip.
  • Silicone Hi-Cond (Bis-Aminopropyl Dimethicone): This is a high-performance silicone specifically designed for conditioning, providing excellent softness and smoothness from the first application.
  • Vitamin B5 (Panthenol): Helps attract and retain moisture in the hair, contributing to a healthier look and feel.
  • Poly-Conditioner Eco (Polyquaternium-7): A cationic polymer that coats the hair shaft, providing smoothness and manageability.

To enhance the immediate results further, you could consider:

  • Adding a higher percentage of Silicone Hi-Cond (Bis-Aminopropyl Dimethicone) within its recommended usage rate (0.5-5%). It is very effective for immediate softness and smoothness.
  • Incorporating hair oils or esters known for providing shine and reducing frizz, such as argan oil, dimethicone, or cyclomethicone (if volatility is desired). Your formula already uses Silicone Hi-Cond, which is a type of silicone.
  • Exploring other high-performance conditioning polymers like Polyquaternium-37 or Polyquaternium-47, which can offer different sensory feel or conditioning properties compared to Polyquaternium-7.

When adding new ingredients, always consider their compatibility with the existing formula components and their recommended usage rates.

Questions on Production Volume, Testing, and Copyright

Regarding the quantity produced for a specific price (1990 Baht), the availability of test/clinical trial services, and documentation for formula copyright, these are related to manufacturing services and business agreements. This information is outside the scope of my function as a formulation expert AI providing technical details about ingredients and formula development.

For these inquiries, please contact the relevant department at the company directly. They will be able to provide detailed information on production costs, available testing services (including associated costs), and intellectual property/copyright documentation related to custom formulations.