Hand Cream Formula Review

Thank you for submitting your hand cream formula for review. The ingredients you've selected are well-suited for your goal of creating a highly moisturizing and water-resistant hand cream for very dry hands, focusing on hydration, barrier repair, and water resistance.

Here is a review of your proposed formula and answers to your questions:

Your Proposed Ingredients:

• Natto Gum, Natural Urea, Water lock (Polyquaternium-51): These are excellent humectants and film-formers that help draw moisture into the skin and create a protective layer to reduce water loss, ideal for dry skin.
• Polyester Film (Polyester-5): This is a film-forming agent that contributes to water resistance, helping the cream stay on the skin better.
• Ceramide 2, Macadamia Nut Oil, Shea Butter: These are lipids and oils that help strengthen and repair the skin barrier, reducing dryness, cracking, and flaking, resulting in softer, more hydrated, and resilient skin. Shea Butter at 10% will contribute significantly to the cream's richness and moisturizing properties.
• Light Cream Maker: This is an emulsifier.

Your Questions:

1. Is it necessary to add Sodium PCA and Sodium Lactate when adding Urea?

   • Urea, Sodium PCA, and Sodium Lactate are all components of the skin's Natural Moisturizing Factors (NMFs). While Urea alone is a good moisturizer, adding Sodium PCA and Sodium Lactate is not strictly necessary but can be beneficial.
   • Multiple NMFs can work synergistically to enhance hydration and improve the skin's ability to retain moisture. Adding them could potentially boost the moisturizing effect further, depending on your desired outcome and formula constraints.

2. Between Cocoa Butter and Shea Butter, which one is less greasy?

   • Generally, Shea Butter tends to feel less greasy and absorbs better than Cocoa Butter. Cocoa Butter is typically heavier and creates a more noticeable occlusive film, which some people perceive as greasier. In your formula, 10% Shea Butter provides high moisturization but might still feel somewhat coating on the skin.

Formula Suggestions:

• Ceramide 2 Percentage: The percentage for Ceramide 2 is missing in your list. Please specify the desired percentage. Ceramides are typically used at 0.1-1% or higher in products focused on intensive barrier repair.
• Emulsifier (Light Cream Maker): Using Light Cream Maker at 1% might be too low to effectively emulsify a total oil/butter phase of 12% (2% Macadamia Nut Oil + 10% Shea Butter) plus other non-aqueous ingredients. You might need to consider increasing the percentage of Light Cream Maker, using it in combination with another emulsifier, or choosing a different emulsifier system better suited for a rich, potentially water-resistant cream.
• Other Base Ingredients: Remember to include other essential base ingredients in your cream formula, such as water (the main component), a preservative to prevent microbial growth, a thickener if a more viscous texture is desired, and potentially a pH adjuster.

Additional Ingredient Recommendations:

For a hand cream targeting intense moisturization, barrier repair, and water resistance, you might consider adding:

• For Moisturization and Barrier Repair:
  • Glycerin, Panthenol (Vitamin B5): Humectants and skin-soothers.
  • Cholesterol, Fatty Acids: Key components of the skin barrier, work well with Ceramides.
  • Allantoin, Bisabolol: Soothing agents, good for irritated dry skin.
• For Enhanced Water Resistance and Occlusion:
  • Dimethicone, Cyclopentasiloxane: Silicone oils that provide a smooth feel, skin conditioning, and improved water resistance without feeling as heavy as some butters.
  • Petrolatum, Mineral Oil: Highly effective occlusive agents that significantly reduce Trans-Epidermal Water Loss (TEWL), excellent for very dry, cracked skin, but can feel heavy.
  • Beeswax, Candelilla Wax: Natural waxes that help thicken the formula and create a water-resistant film.

Your initial formula is a great starting point with key ingredients targeting your goals. Further adjustments can be made based on your desired texture and the level of richness and water resistance you wish to achieve.

Please let me know if you have any more questions or would like to refine the formula further.