Regarding Your 50% Glycolic Acid Gel Formulation

Hello! Welcome to the forum. Thank you for sharing your formulation idea and asking for feedback.

Your calculation for achieving a 50% Glycolic Acid concentration using 50g of 100% Glycolic Acid powder, 48g water, and 2g thickener is mathematically correct in terms of percentage by weight.

However, as mentioned by cosmeceutical7, there are critical safety concerns and technical issues with this formulation for home use:

Safety Concerns (Extremely Important)

• A concentration of 50% Glycolic Acid is extremely high and dangerous for personal use at home.
• This concentration is typically used only in controlled clinical settings by trained professionals for procedures like chemical peels, where the skin's reaction is closely monitored and immediate neutralization is possible.
• Using such a high concentration without proper knowledge and precautions can cause severe skin burns, permanent damage, and goes against cosmetic safety regulations.
• It is crucial to have a neutralizing solution (like Sodium Bicarbonate) readily available if working with such high acid concentrations, which is complex and risky for non-professionals.

We strongly advise against making or using a 50% Glycolic Acid product at home due to the severe risks involved. For personal skincare, much lower concentrations (typically 5-15%) are recommended and considered safe when formulated correctly.

Technical Issues with Thickener and Method

• The thickener you referred to as "pro polymer" is likely a type of Carbomer. Carbomers are generally not suitable for thickening solutions with very high acid concentrations like 50% Glycolic Acid because the acid interferes with their gelling mechanism.
• The method you described (mixing acid and water first, then adding the thickener powder, and using refrigeration/stirring cycles) is not the standard or effective way to hydrate and gel Carbomers or other common thickeners like Hydroxyethyl Cellulose or Xanthan Gum.
• For high acid formulations, thickeners like Hydroxyethyl Cellulose (HEC) or Xanthan Gum are more appropriate as they are stable in acidic environments.
• The correct method when using HEC or Xanthan Gum in an acidic formula is typically to hydrate the thickener in water first to form the gel base, and then slowly incorporate the acid while stirring until homogeneous.

Recommended Alternatives

If you wish to create an AHA product for home use, please consider using a much lower, safer concentration of Glycolic Acid (e.g., 5-10%). You would still need an appropriate thickener like Hydroxyethyl Cellulose or Xanthan Gum and follow the correct preparation method for that specific thickener.

We have products like Glycopure™ (Glycolic Acid (AHA) 100% Powder) available, but it is intended for formulators who understand how to handle and dilute it safely to appropriate concentrations for cosmetic use. We also offer suitable thickeners like Hydroxyethyl Cellulose (HEC) and Xanthan Gum.

Please prioritize your skin's safety. If you are new to formulating, starting with simple recipes and low concentrations of active ingredients is highly recommended.