High Oil Content Formulation and Emulsifier Selection

Asked by: kajohnyot.hir On: March 24, 2018 Product Type: Cosmetics

Question

I would like to ask for advice on a formula with high oil content. I initially proposed the following formula:

  • Water: 45%
  • Light oil: 45%
  • Water in Oil EZ: 2.5%
  • Milk Lotion Maker: 2.5%
  • Water guard: 6%

The staff informed me that Water-in-Oil EZ cannot be used together with Milk Lotion Maker as they are different systems. They provided two alternative formulas for a product with 45% light oil:

  1. Water-in-Oil System:

    • Water: Remaining percentage to reach 100%
    • Light oil: 45%
    • Water in Oil EZ: 4%
    • Oil-Fix™ (Water-in-Oil Stabilizer): 1%
  2. Oil-in-Water System:

    • Water: Remaining percentage to reach 100%
    • Light oil: 45%
    • Milk Lotion Maker: 5%
    • Stabilizer: ClayThick Ready 10% OR Xanthan Gum 0.5%

Both recommended formulas require a preservative and stability testing due to the high oil content.

Could you please provide more details or confirmation regarding these formulations? Specifically, I am interested in achieving a stable formulation with high oil content (around 45%) and maintaining a liquid texture, while also considering the addition of Water guard for water resistance.

Answer

Based on the staff's response regarding your goal of creating a formula with high oil content (around 45-50%), Water-Capsule™ is not suitable as it can only emulsify up to 20-25% oil.

For a formula with 45% light oil, the staff recommended two possible approaches using different emulsifier systems:

Option 1: Water-in-Oil System

  • Water: Remaining percentage to reach 100%
  • Light oil: 45%
  • Water in Oil EZ: 4%
  • Oil-Fix™ (Water-in-Oil Stabilizer): 1%

Option 2: Oil-in-Water System

  • Water: Remaining percentage to reach 100%
  • Light oil: 45%
  • Milk Lotion Maker: 5%
  • Stabilizer:
    • ClayThick Ready: 10% OR
    • Xanthan Gum: 0.5%

Important Considerations:

  • Both formulas require the addition of a preservative.
  • Due to the high oil content, stability testing (e.g., using a centrifuge or storing at different temperatures over time) is crucial to ensure the formula does not separate.
  • Regarding your question about increasing water resistance while maintaining a liquid texture, you mentioned "Water guard" in your proposed formula. The staff's recommended formulas focus on achieving stable emulsification at high oil levels.