HLB values of Sym-White & Perfect-C and formulating a Vitamin E scalp spray

Subject: Re: HLB value and emulsifier inquiry

Hello,

Regarding your questions:

1. HLB value of Sym-White™ and Perfect-C™: As previously mentioned by the staff, these ingredients do not have HLB values. HLB values are typically associated with surfactants and emulsifiers, which help blend oil and water phases. Sym-White™ (Phenylethyl Resorcinol) and Perfect-C™ (Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate) are active ingredients, not emulsifiers, and therefore do not have an HLB value.

2. Scalp spray formulation with 1% Vitamin E:

   • You plan to make a water-based spray with 1% Vitamin E, using a base of water + Xanthan Gum.
   • Please note the staff's advice that using Xanthan Gum is not recommended for spray formulations as it can make it difficult to create a fine mist.
   • For incorporating 1% Vitamin E (which is oil-soluble) into a water base, you need a solubilizer or dispersant, not a traditional emulsifier system like Glyceryl Stearate + Cetyl Alcohol. Glyceryl Stearate and Cetyl Alcohol are solid emulsifiers typically used in higher concentrations in the oil phase of creams or lotions to form stable emulsions, which is not suitable for a low-viscosity spray.
   • The staff recommended using Flora Solve at approximately 3% to help disperse the 1% Vitamin E in the water base.
   • Yes, you can potentially use Tween 20 or Tween 80 as alternatives to Flora Solve for cost-saving. Both are high-HLB surfactants that can act as solubilizers for small amounts of oil in water. The exact amount needed would require testing to achieve clarity and stability, but a starting point could be around 3% or a ratio of about 3 parts solubilizer to 1 part Vitamin E.
   • For this type of formulation (solubilizing a small percentage of oil in a large water phase), you typically do not need to perform complex HLB calculations required for traditional emulsions with significant oil phases. The focus is on finding a suitable solubilizer and determining the effective concentration to keep the oil dispersed or solubilized in the water.

Hope this clarifies your questions.

Thank you.
Staff - MySkinRecipes