Homemade Face Cream Formulation Compatibility and Stability
ถามโดย: qgraceworld
เมื่อ: December 25, 2019
ประเภทผลิตภัณฑ์:
เครื่องสำอาง
คำถาม
Please review the compatibility of the ingredients in the following homemade face cream formulation, which aims to tighten skin, reduce wrinkles, provide moisture, and whiten skin.
Formulation:
Part A (Hot Process 50°C)
- Water 10%
- Sodium Lactate Plus 3%
Part B (Hot Process 50°C)
- Sensitive Cream Maker 1%
- LipidSoft Lite 1%
- Pure-Baicalin 0.3%
Part C
- Remaining Water %
- Methylsilanol Mannuronate 3%
- Palmaria Palmata Extract 3%
- Glycosaminoglycans Complex 2%
- Wrinkle-Fill 2%
- CeraTouch 1%
- HydroAlgae 1%
- Sym-White 1%
Part D
- Encapsulated Salicylic Acid 3%
Part E
- Aquamax 3% (Thickener)
Part F
- Preservative 0.7%
คำตอบ
Formulation Compatibility Assessment
Your formulation includes a comprehensive set of ingredients targeting moisturizing, skin tightening, wrinkle reduction, and whitening, along with an exfoliant. This is a good approach to address multiple skin concerns.
However, there are several potential compatibility issues and points to consider regarding the mixing process and ingredient concentrations:
Potential Compatibility Issues
- Sym-White and Amino Acids/Proteins: The description for Sym-White (Phenylethyl Resorcinol) explicitly states to avoid ingredients from the Amino Acid, Urea, or protein groups, as they can cause yellowing or separation. Your formula includes Wrinkle-Fill (Acetyl-Tyrosine, an amino acid derivative) and Glycosaminoglycans Complex, which falls under the category of protein/sugar complexes. Combining Sym-White with these ingredients is likely to cause instability, discoloration, or reduced efficacy of the Sym-White.
- pH Level: Sym-White requires a final formula pH of 4-5 for stability. Wrinkle-Fill (Acetyl-Tyrosine) is acidic (pH 2-3 at 2.5%). Including both will require careful pH adjustment to be within the 4-5 range for Sym-White, while also ensuring the overall formula is stable and not too irritating for the skin. The optimal pH for the other actives and the preservative also needs to be considered.
- Preservative Compatibility: The specific preservative you plan to use at 0.7% is not identified. Preservatives have specific pH ranges and compatibility requirements. You must ensure your chosen preservative is effective and stable at the target pH of 4-5 and compatible with all other ingredients, especially the actives and the emulsifier.
Mixing Process and Temperature
- Sensitive Cream Maker: The description indicates this emulsifier melts around 70°C. Your Part B hot process is listed at 50°C, which may not be sufficient for proper melting and emulsification. Consider increasing the hot process temperature for Parts A and B to around 70-75°C.
- Heat-Sensitive Ingredients: Several ingredients in your Part C and Part D, namely Palmaria Palmata Extract, Glycosaminoglycans Complex, HydroAlgae, and Encapsulated Salicylic Acid, should not be exposed to temperatures above 40°C. Your current process of adding Part C and D after the hot process is correct, but ensure the emulsion has cooled sufficiently (below 40°C) before adding these ingredients.
- Pure-Baicalin Mixing Phase: Pure-Baicalin should be mixed in the water phase and avoids heat above 60°C. It is currently listed in Part B (oil phase). It should be moved to Part C and added during the cool-down phase along with other heat-sensitive water-soluble ingredients.
- Encapsulated Salicylic Acid Dispersion: This is a powder that needs to be dispersed, not dissolved. Ensure thorough blending (as per the product description's recommended times) in the final step to prevent settling.
Ingredient Concentrations
- Methylsilanol Mannuronate: The recommended usage rate for firming is 4-6%. Your proposed 3% is below this range and may not provide the desired tightening effect. Increasing the concentration would require adjusting the water percentage.
- Aquamax (Sepimax Zen): If "Aquamax" refers to Sepimax Zen, the recommended usage rate is 0.5-2%. Your proposed 3% is above the maximum recommended rate, which could affect the texture and stability. Consider reducing the concentration to within the recommended range.
Recommendations
- Review Sym-White Compatibility: Given the strong warning about amino acids and proteins, you may need to reconsider using Sym-White alongside Wrinkle-Fill and Glycosaminoglycans Complex. You might choose alternative whitening agents or adjust the formulation significantly.
- Adjust Mixing Temperatures: Increase the hot process temperature for Parts A and B to 70-75°C for proper emulsification with Sensitive Cream Maker.
- Add Heat-Sensitive Ingredients in Cool-Down Phase: Ensure Parts C and D ingredients (including Pure-Baicalin, Palmaria Palmata Extract, Glycosaminoglycans Complex, HydroAlgae, Encapsulated Salicylic Acid, Sym-White, Aquamax, and Preservative) are added only after the main emulsion has cooled below 40°C.
- Adjust Concentrations: Consider increasing Methylsilanol Mannuronate to 4-6% and decreasing Aquamax (Sepimax Zen) to 0.5-2%. Adjust the water phase accordingly to maintain 100% total.
- Verify Preservative Compatibility and pH: Confirm that your chosen preservative is compatible with all ingredients and effective at the target pH range of 4-5. Carefully adjust the final pH of the formula after all ingredients are added.
- Small Batch Testing: Always test the formulation in a small batch first to check for stability, texture, color changes, and overall compatibility before making a larger batch.
By addressing these points, you can improve the stability and effectiveness of your homemade face cream.
ผลิตภัณฑ์ที่เกี่ยวข้องที่กล่าวถึง
Wrinkle-Fill™ (Acetyl-Tyrosine)
เครื่องสำอาง
LipidSoft™ Lite (Isononyl Isononanoate)
เครื่องสำอาง
Ceramide Complex (Water Dispersible Powder)
เครื่องสำอาง
Phenylethyl Resorcinol (e.q. SymWhite 377)
เครื่องสำอาง
Glycosaminoglycans Complex
เครื่องสำอาง
Sodium Lactate Plus
เครื่องสำอาง
Encapsulated Salicylic Acid (Powder, Timed-Release)
เครื่องสำอาง
Methylsilanol Mannuronate
เครื่องสำอาง
Sensitive Cream Maker™
เครื่องสำอาง
HydroAlgae™
เครื่องสำอาง
Palmaria Palmata Extract
เครื่องสำอาง
Sepimax Zen
เครื่องสำอาง