Homemade Lotion Formulation Issues and Request for Lotion/Hand Cream Formulas
Question
I attempted to create a lotion using a self-adjusted formula. The ingredients and percentages used were:
Oil Phase:
- Mineral Oil (Paraffinum Liquidum) Heavy: 15%
- E-wax: 5%
- stearic acid: 2%
- Glycerin (Vegetable) 99.5%: 3%
Water Phase:
- น้ำกลั่น: 75%
- Goat Milk Powder (Preservative-Free): 1%
Cool Down Phase:
- lexgard natural: 1%
After making it, when applied to the skin, the cream appears as white streaks when spread. Additionally, the cream texture seems like the oil phase and water phase haven't mixed well; there are small bubbles in the cream.
Could you please advise which ingredients should be changed?
I would also like to request a formula for goat milk lotion and a formula for hand cream.
Thank you.
Answer
Revised Goat Milk Lotion Formula
Based on the issues you encountered with your lotion formula, such as white streaks and separation with small bubbles, it suggests that the oil and water phases may not have emulsified completely or stably. This can be due to several factors, including the ratio of emulsifiers to oils, the heating temperature, the mixing speed and duration during emulsification, and the order of adding ingredients, especially heat-sensitive ones.
Your original formula used Mineral Oil, E-wax (likely Emulsifying Wax 1000), and Stearic Acid. While these can work together, the proportion and processing method are key. Goat Milk Powder and certain preservatives like NaturePreserve™ LB2 are best added during the cool-down phase to maintain their integrity and prevent issues like discoloration or reduced efficacy from heat.
Here are some revised formulas and tips to help you achieve a stable and smooth texture for a goat milk lotion and an example hand cream.
Phase A (Water Phase)
- Distilled Water: 70%
- Glycerin: 5%
- Panthenol (DL-Panthenol Powder): 1%
Phase B (Oil Phase)
- Mineral Oil (Heavy): 10%
- Shea Butter (Refined, Deodorised): 3%
- Sweet Almond Oil: 3%
- Emulsifying Wax 1000 (e.q. Emulgade 1000 NI): 4%
Phase C (Cool Down Phase)
- Goat Milk Powder (Preservative-Free): 2%
- NaturePreserve™ LB2: 1%
Total: 100%
Procedure:
- Combine ingredients in Phase A (except Goat Milk Powder and NaturePreserve™ LB2) in a heat-resistant container and heat to 70-75°C.
- Combine ingredients in Phase B in a separate heat-resistant container and heat to 70-75°C until all solids are completely melted and the oil phase is clear.
- Slowly pour the hot Phase B into the hot Phase A while mixing continuously. Use a high-shear mixer (like a stick blender) for 3-5 minutes to create a stable emulsion.
- Switch to a lower speed mixer (like a regular whisk or spatula) and continue stirring gently as the emulsion cools. Avoid incorporating too much air.
- When the temperature drops below 50°C, add the ingredients from Phase C (Goat Milk Powder and NaturePreserve™ LB2). Mix until fully incorporated and smooth.
- Continue mixing occasionally until the lotion reaches room temperature and thickens to the desired consistency.
Tips for success:
- Ensure both phases are at similar temperatures (70-75°C) before combining.
- Mix vigorously during the initial emulsification phase.
- Add heat-sensitive ingredients only during the cool-down phase below 50°C.
- Avoid over-mixing once the emulsion has formed and is cooling, as this can introduce bubbles.
Example Hand Cream Formula
Hand creams typically benefit from a richer feel and more protective ingredients. This formula uses a higher percentage of butters and oils and a slightly higher emulsifier/thickener level.
Phase A (Water Phase)
- Distilled Water: 65%
- Glycerin: 5%
- Panthenol (DL-Panthenol Powder): 2%
Phase B (Oil Phase)
- Shea Butter (Refined, Deodorised): 8%
- Sweet Almond Oil: 5%
- Mineral Oil (Paraffinum Liquidum) Heavy: 5%
- Emulsifying Wax 1000 (e.q. Emulgade 1000 NI): 5%
- Stearic Acid (Stearic: 39-45%, Palmitic: 53-60%): 3%
Phase C (Cool Down Phase)
- Vitamin E (Tocopheryl Acetate): 1%
- NaturePreserve™ LB2: 1%
Total: 100%
Procedure:
Follow the same procedure as the Goat Milk Lotion, heating Phases A and B to 70-75°C, emulsifying with high shear, and adding Phase C during the cool-down phase below 50°C.
This formula provides a richer texture suitable for hand cream due to the higher oil and butter content and the combination of Emulsifying Wax 1000 and Stearic Acid for emulsification and thickening. Vitamin E is included for its antioxidant and skin-conditioning properties.
Related Products Mentioned
Vitamin E (Tocopheryl Acetate)
Shea Butter (Refined , Deodorised)
Glycerin (USP/Food Grade)
Goat Milk Powder (Preservative-Free)