Homemade Vitamin C Serum: Dryness, Enlarged Pores, and Ingredient Questions

Asked by: benzax10 On: October 10, 2012 Product Type: Cosmetics

Question

I made a homemade facial Vitamin C serum using a formula found online with the following ingredients:

  • ethoxydiglycol 45%
  • Propylene Glycol 25%
  • ascorbic acid 15%
  • water 15%

The resulting pH is around 3-4. After applying it, my face feels dry and tight, but without swelling, redness, or itching. After about 7 days of use, my pores appear noticeably larger.

I have the following questions:

  1. Could you please analyze the cause of the perceived enlarged pores after using this serum?
  2. Does ethoxydiglycol cause pores to enlarge?
  3. Are there any alternative ingredients that can effectively help Vitamin C penetrate the skin and can replace ethoxydiglycol?
  4. Based on the issues experienced, should I increase or decrease any ingredients?
  5. Should I add or remove any ingredients from this formula?

Answer

Hello,

Thank you for sharing your experience and formula. It's understandable to be concerned when you experience unexpected skin changes.

Regarding your questions:

  1. Cause of enlarged pores: You mentioned your skin felt dry and tight after using the serum. While L-Ascorbic Acid is beneficial, a 15% concentration at a low pH (3-4) can be quite potent and potentially irritating, especially when combined with a high percentage of solvents like ethoxydiglycol (45%) and Propylene Glycol (25%). This high concentration of active and solvents might have led to dryness or irritation, which can sometimes make pores appear more noticeable or enlarged.
  2. Does ethoxydiglycol cause enlarged pores? Based on the information provided (and general knowledge), ethoxydiglycol itself is not known to directly cause enlarged pores. It primarily functions as a solvent and penetration enhancer in cosmetic formulations.
  3. Alternatives to ethoxydiglycol: Ethoxydiglycol helps dissolve ingredients and enhance skin penetration. Other glycols like butylene glycol or dipropylene glycol can also act as solvents and penetration enhancers. However, your current formula already contains a very high percentage of solvents (70% combined). Simply replacing ethoxydiglycol with another solvent might not resolve the issue if the problem is the overall solvent load or the high concentration of Ascorbic Acid causing dryness.
  4. Should ingredients be increased or decreased?
  5. Should ingredients be added or removed?
    Given the dryness and tightness you experienced, and the potential link to the appearance of enlarged pores, the formula might be too harsh for your skin.
    • Decrease: You could consider decreasing the percentage of ethoxydiglycol and Propylene Glycol, and potentially the Ascorbic Acid concentration (e.g., to 10%). This would require increasing the water percentage to maintain the total volume. This might make the serum less irritating and drying.
    • Add: Adding a small percentage of a hydrating ingredient like Glycerin (e.g., 1-3%) could help counteract the dryness. However, adding ingredients can affect the stability and pH of the serum, which are critical for L-Ascorbic Acid formulations.
    • Remove: Removing ethoxydiglycol or Propylene Glycol would significantly change the formula and likely impact the solubility and stability of the Ascorbic Acid. As the staff mentioned, removing ethoxydiglycol (especially if Ferulic Acid were present, though it's not in your listed formula) could lead to faster oxidation.
    • Consider the Staff's Suggestion: The staff's suggestion of mixing L-Ascorbic Acid with water just before use is a way to avoid high solvent concentrations and stability issues, although it means preparing a fresh batch for each application.

Formulating stable and effective L-Ascorbic Acid serums at home can be challenging due to the need to control pH, prevent oxidation, and ensure skin tolerance. The dryness you experienced suggests the current formula might not be suitable for your skin type or is too potent. You might consider trying a lower concentration of Vitamin C, simplifying the formula significantly (like the water-only suggestion for single use), or exploring commercially available Vitamin C serums known for their stability and gentler formulations.

Tags

Formulation Adjustment Serum Skin Dryness Solvents Stability