How to Make a Peeling Gel with White Clumps (Gommage/Peeling Gel)
Question
I want to make a peeling gel (Gommage/Peeling Gel) that produces white clumps when rubbed on the skin. What are the key ingredients and formulation steps required to achieve this characteristic white clumping effect?
Answer
How to Make a Peeling Gel with White Clumps (Gommage/Peeling Gel)
The characteristic white clumps that appear when rubbing this type of peeling gel are not solely due to the removal of dead skin cells. They are primarily caused by certain gelling agents (Polymers) in the formula reacting with the salts and oils on the skin, causing them to aggregate or "pill." This process may also pick up some dead skin cells and impurities.
Key ingredients commonly used to create this white clumping effect are often water-soluble polymers, such as:
- Polyethylene Oxide (PEO): Polymers like PEG-14M (Polyglide™) or PEG-23M have a unique property where they precipitate or clump significantly when they come into contact with electrolytes (like salts in sweat or on the skin). This creates the visible white "pills" when the gel is massaged onto the skin.
- Certain Cellulose Derivatives: In some formulas and concentrations, ingredients like Hydroxypropyl Methylcellulose (HPMC) or Carboxymethyl Cellulose (CMC) can also contribute to clumping, but PEOs typically provide a more pronounced "dead skin" like effect.
Basic Formulation Guideline:
To create this type of gel, you can start by preparing a basic gel base and then adding the polymer responsible for the clumping effect.
- Prepare a Gel Base: Use water as the main solvent and a standard gelling agent (like Carbomer, HPMC, or other gel makers) at a normal concentration to create a clear gel texture.
- Add the Clumping Polymer: Incorporate PEG-14M (Polyglide™) or PEG-23M at the recommended usage rate (typically 1-5%) into the prepared gel base. Mix until the polymer is fully dissolved (heating may be required for dissolution depending on the specific ingredient).
- Adjust Other Ingredients: Add other skincare actives, preservatives, or color/fragrance as desired.
When this gel is applied to the skin and massaged, the polymer will react with the skin's surface and aggregate, forming the white clumps.
Important Considerations:
- The clumping effect is primarily due to the polymer and is not solely the removal of all dead skin cells.
- Using too high a concentration of the clumping polymer might lead to an unstable gel or cause clumping before use.
- Always test the product on a small area of skin for efficacy and irritation before applying it widely.
To experiment, you can start by using PEG-14M (Polyglide™) or PEG-23M in a basic clear gel base at a concentration of 1-3% and adjust based on the desired outcome.
