Hyaluronic Acid Gel Formulation: Texture, Usage, and Stability
Asked by: nonvapon
On: March 26, 2015
Product Type:
Cosmetics
Question
I have a gel formulation with the following ingredients:
- Hyaluronic Acid standard molecule 1%
- Repair Activator™ 10%
- Adenosine Complex 5%
Based on this formula and the characteristics of Hyaluronic Acid gel, I have several questions:
- Why does Hyaluronic Acid standard molecule at 1% concentration result in a liquid gel texture, even when using cold water?
- Do the other ingredients in the formula (Repair Activator™, Adenosine Complex) affect the texture or stability of the Hyaluronic Acid gel?
- Is it possible or advisable to use Hyaluronic Acid at concentrations higher than 1% to achieve a thicker gel texture, perhaps suitable for packaging in a jar?
- If using HA above 1% is not recommended, what are the potential negative effects on the skin?
- If a thicker gel is desired, should I use other gelling agents? What are some suitable options?
- Should I add Butylene Glycol to this formula, or is it already sufficiently present in the Repair Activator™?
- Is it necessary to include a preservative in this Hyaluronic Acid gel formulation, and what happens if I omit it?
Answer
Advice for Your Hyaluronic Acid Gel Formulation
Regarding the formula you provided (Hyaluronic Acid standard molecule 1%, Repair Activator™ 10%, Adenosine Complex 5%) and the additional information received, here is some advice:
- Effect of Electrolytes on HA Gel: The ingredients you listed in your formula (Repair Activator™, Adenosine Complex) do not contain electrolytes that would cause the Hyaluronic Acid gel to weaken. The gel texture obtained from 1% Hyaluronic Acid Standard Molecule in cold water will naturally be quite liquid.
- Using HA Above 1%: It is not recommended to use Hyaluronic Acid above 1% in a formula because excessively high concentrations can cause Hyaluronic Acid to draw water out of the skin instead of providing moisture, leading to discomfort or dryness. Generally, the use rate for Hyaluronic Acid Standard Molecule in cosmetics is around 0.1-0.5% for good moisturizing efficacy and suitable texture.
- HA Concentration for Thicker Gel / Preventing Precipitation:
- For this specific formula, precipitation is not expected, so increasing thickness solely to prevent precipitation is not necessary.
- 1% Hyaluronic Acid Standard Molecule results in a liquid gel. If you desire a thicker gel texture, whether to prevent potential precipitation (if other ingredients were added that might precipitate) or simply for preferred feel, you should consider using other gelling agents in conjunction, such as Pro Polymer, Xanthan Gum, or Reshape Gel. These will help increase viscosity as needed without exceeding the recommended amount of Hyaluronic Acid.
- HA Concentration for Jar-Suitable Gel: A gel thick enough to be packaged in a jar typically has much higher viscosity than the liquid gel obtained from 1% Hyaluronic Acid Standard Molecule. Increasing Standard Hyaluronic Acid to achieve that level of thickness is not feasible and not recommended (as per the point above). If you want a very thick gel texture suitable for a jar, you should primarily use other gelling agents to build the structure.
- Should Butylene Glycol be Included: The Repair Activator™ you are using (especially the BG type) already contains Butylene Glycol as part of its base. Butylene Glycol is a good humectant and solvent and helps dissolve ingredients well. Whether or not to add additional Butylene Glycol depends on your desired total concentration for texture and overall hydration, but it is generally compatible with the other ingredients in this formula.
- Additional Important Note: A crucial point for Hyaluronic Acid gel formulations is that you must include a preservative. Without a preservative, the Hyaluronic Acid will be degraded by bacteria, causing the gel texture to become liquid and the product to spoil quickly.