Hyaluronic Acid Serum Formulation: Dissolving & Thickening

Asked by: shoppingist On: December 21, 2016 Product Type: Cosmetics

Question

I would like to ask about the steps for dissolving Hyaluronic Acid. Can I add both Hyaluronic Acid Nano Molecule and Hyaluronic Acid Standard Molecule into water simultaneously and shake, or do I need to dissolve them one type at a time (e.g., add Nano Molecule first -> shake -> refrigerate until fully dissolved, then add Standard Molecule)?

Additionally, regarding a full serum formulation:

  1. Are there any adjustments needed for the mixing steps, particularly concerning the dissolution of both types of Hyaluronic Acid?
  2. If the finished serum is too liquid, can I add Pro Polymer to increase viscosity? If so, do I need to wait for the serum to reach room temperature first?

Answer

Subject: Re: Inquiry about mixing Hyaluronic Serum

Hello,

Thank you for sharing your Hyaluronic Serum formula and questions. Based on your ingredients and desired outcome (hydration, anti-aging for normal skin, used at night), this formula looks promising.

Regarding your questions:

  1. Adjustments to mixing steps:

    • Based on the staff's recommendation, it is best to dissolve the Hyaluronic Acid powders (both Nano and Standard Molecule) completely in the distilled water first. This process can take several hours in the refrigerator as you mentioned.
    • Once the Hyaluronic Acid is fully dissolved and a gel is formed, you can then proceed to add the other ingredients. You can add ingredients 1-5 first and mix well, followed by ingredients 8, 9, and 10, mixing thoroughly after each addition.
    • As the staff noted, the Nano Molecule Hyaluronic Acid dissolves faster than the Standard Molecule, but you can dissolve them together in the water simultaneously.
  2. Adding Pro Polymer for thickening:

    • Yes, you can add Pro Polymer to increase the viscosity if the serum is too liquid.
    • However, as the staff explained, DMAE (ingredient 9) is an electrolyte that can interfere with Pro Polymer's ability to thicken the solution.
    • Therefore, if you decide to add Pro Polymer, you must add it before adding DMAE (ingredient 9).
    • A suitable step would be to add Pro Polymer after the Hyaluronic Acid has fully dissolved and before you add ingredients 8, 9, and 10. The temperature of the serum (cold from the refrigerator or room temperature) is less critical than ensuring Pro Polymer is added before DMAE.

I hope this helps with your formulation!