Hydrolyzed Sclerotium Gum (Poly-Protect) in Sunscreen: Usage, Stability, and Formulation Tips
Question
Using Hydrolyzed Sclerotium Gum (Poly-Protect) in Sunscreen Formulations
I am developing a suncream and would like to use Hydrolyzed Sclerotium Gum (Poly-Protect). Please confirm the following details regarding its application:
- Is Hydrolyzed Sclerotium Gum (Poly-Protect) suitable for use in sunscreen formulations?
- What is the recommended usage rate range for this ingredient?
- How is its compatibility with essential sunscreen ingredients, particularly UV filters (both chemical and physical)?
- Are there any specific formulation tips or technical considerations for incorporating Hydrolyzed Sclerotium Gum into suncreams (e.g., mixing phase, temperature limits, or synergy with other stabilizers)?
Answer
Hydrolyzed Sclerotium Gum (Poly-Protect) is an excellent ingredient for use in sunscreen formulations. It functions as a natural rheology modifier, stabilizer, and film-former, which are all highly beneficial properties for sun protection products.
1. Feasibility in Sunscreen Formulations
Yes, Poly-Protect is highly suitable for sunscreens. Its use is confirmed by commercial products, such as the example found in the product description: Paula's Choice DEFENSE Essential Glow Moisturizer SPF 30.
In sunscreens, it helps to:
- Stabilize Emulsions: It is highly effective at stabilizing oil-in-water (O/W) emulsions, which are the most common type of sunscreen base.
- Suspend UV Filters: It provides the necessary yield stress to keep physical UV filters (like Zinc Oxide and Titanium Dioxide) evenly suspended, preventing settling and ensuring uniform SPF protection.
- Improve Sensory Feel: It imparts a pleasant, non-tacky, and smooth texture, improving the spreadability and reducing the common greasy feel of sunscreens.
2. Recommended Usage Rate
The recommended usage rate for Poly-Protect (Hydrolyzed Sclerotium Gum) is:
- General Range: 0.5% to 2%
- Recommended Rate: 1% to 1.5%
3. Compatibility with UV Filters and Other Ingredients
Poly-Protect is a non-ionic, natural polysaccharide gum, which gives it excellent compatibility with a wide range of cosmetic ingredients, including:
- UV Filters: It is compatible with both organic (chemical) and inorganic (physical) UV filters. Its non-ionic nature means it is less likely to interact negatively with charged ingredients, including many common UV filter molecules.
- Electrolytes: Unlike some other natural gums (like Xanthan Gum), Sclerotium Gum is known for its high tolerance to electrolytes and salts, which are often present in sunscreen formulations (e.g., from neutralizing agents or raw material impurities).
- Emulsifiers: It works synergistically with most common emulsifiers to boost emulsion stability.
4. Specific Formulation Tips for Suncreams
- Mixing Phase: Poly-Protect is water-soluble and must be dispersed in the water phase of your formulation.
- Temperature Limit: Avoid heating the mixture above 60°C. High heat can degrade the polymer structure and reduce its thickening and stabilizing effectiveness.
- Dispersion: To ensure proper hydration and prevent clumping, slowly sprinkle the powder into the water phase while stirring vigorously (e.g., with a homogenizer or high-shear mixer).
- Synergy: For maximum stability and a superior sensory profile, Poly-Protect can be used in combination with other stabilizers, such as certain synthetic polymers or fatty alcohols.
- pH Range: It maintains its thickening and stabilizing properties across a wide pH range, making it suitable for the slightly acidic to neutral pH typical of sunscreen products.
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