Immediate Gelling and Clumping in Gel/Cream Formulation

Based on the ingredients you are using, particularly Ceteareth-25 and Beeswax, the immediate gelling and clumping you are experiencing is likely due to the temperature difference between your water and oil phases during mixing.

Both Ceteareth-25 and Beeswax are solid at room temperature and need to be heated to melt and be properly incorporated into the oil phase. When you pour this heated oil phase into a water phase that is not at a sufficiently high and similar temperature, these ingredients can solidify very quickly upon contact with the cooler water, causing the mixture to seize up and form clumps instead of a smooth emulsion or gel.

While you mentioned heating the water to around 70°C, it is crucial that both phases are at a similar elevated temperature, typically between 70-80°C, just before you combine them. This temperature range is generally above the melting points of common waxes and solid emulsifiers like Beeswax (melting point around 62°C) and Ceteareth-25.

Glycerin is a liquid humectant and solvent and is less likely to be the primary cause of this rapid solidification issue. PVP is water-soluble and should dissolve in the heated water phase.

To correct this issue and achieve a smooth texture, please try the following:

• Heat both your water phase (water + PVP + Glycerin) and your oil phase (Ceteareth-25 + PEG-7 Glyceryl Cocoate + Beeswax) to the same temperature range, ideally between 75-80°C. Use a thermometer to verify the temperatures of both phases just before mixing.
• Maintain both phases at this temperature while you perform the mixing.
• Slowly add the oil phase to the water phase (or vice versa, depending on your specific formulation needs, but adding oil to water is common for O/W emulsions which Ceteareth-25 typically forms) with continuous stirring. Use a whisk or a mechanical stirrer to ensure thorough and consistent mixing as the emulsion forms and cools.
• Continue stirring until the mixture has cooled down significantly and the desired texture has developed.

Ensuring that both phases are at a matched, sufficiently high temperature during the combining step will prevent the premature solidification of your solid ingredients and allow for proper emulsification and thickening, resulting in a smooth, uniform gel or cream.