Improving Absorption and Dry Feel in Gel/Lotion Formulations

Question

I am developing a gel formulation without alcohol that absorbs slowly. I want to make it absorb faster and feel dry but soft on the skin. I am trying to avoid alcohol and silicones initially. Does LipidSoft™ Dry II help with quick drying in this context (avoiding alcohol and silicone)? Which is faster drying: LipidSoft™ Lite or LipidSoft™ Dry? Do LipidSoft™ Lite and LipidSoft™ Dry coat the skin like Dimethicone 1Secs (meaning, do they form a film that blocks the skin from air)?

MySkinRecipes Expert · Accepted Answer

Subject: Ingredients to help skin absorption speed

Hello,

Regarding your gel formula without alcohol that absorbs slowly, you're looking for ingredients to make it absorb faster and feel dry but soft on the skin.

The absorption speed of a gel depends on its base and other ingredients. Since you are avoiding alcohol, which is a fast-evaporating solvent, the gel naturally takes longer to dry.

Here are some ingredients that can help improve the absorption speed and feel, based on your query and the provided information:

For a dry, fast-absorbing feel (non-silicone option): Consider adding LipidSoft™ Dry II (Dicaprylyl Carbonate) at 7-10%. This ingredient provides a light, dry feel on the skin and is an alternative if you want to avoid silicones.
For a very fast-drying feel (silicone option): If you are open to using silicones, Dimethicone 1Secs at 7-10% is highly effective. It evaporates quickly, leaving a dry, non-greasy finish.
To reduce oiliness (if present): If the slow absorption is due to the oil phase in your gel, adding an oil absorber like SelectSorb™ (PMMA) at around 3% can help. Increasing the amount of Silica (you currently use 0.5%) might also help absorb oil, depending on the type of Silica used.
To aid penetration of water-soluble actives: Laurocapram (2-3%) helps carry water-soluble ingredients into the skin, which can indirectly contribute to a less heavy feel, but its primary function is active delivery.

Addressing your specific questions:

Silica: Increasing the amount of oil-absorbing powders like Silica or PMMA can help improve the dry feel and absorption speed if the formula feels oily.
Silicones: Yes, silicones like Dimethicone 1Secs are commonly used to provide a fast-drying, smooth, and non-greasy feel.
LipidSoft™ Dry II vs LipidSoft™ Lite/Dry: LipidSoft™ Dry II is specifically recommended for providing a dry feel. Both LipidSoft™ Lite, LipidSoft™ Dry, and Dimethicone 1Secs have low film-forming ability, meaning they do not create a significant occlusive film on the skin. Dimethicone 1Secs evaporates completely.

Choose the ingredient(s) based on whether you prefer a silicone or non-silicone option and if oil absorption is needed.