Formula Improvement Suggestions

Your formula contains a rich blend of active ingredients, humectants, and barrier repair components. The issues you're experiencing with white cast, color change, and texture are common challenges in complex formulations like this.

1. White Cast / Needs Rubbing to Disappear

The white cast you observe, which requires rubbing or patting to disappear, is likely due to the combination of thickening agents and high molecular weight ingredients that sit on the skin surface before fully absorbing or spreading.

• Possible Causes:

  • High molecular weight Hyaluronic Acid: 8D Hyaluronic Acid contains various molecular weights, including large ones, which are excellent for surface hydration and film-forming but can contribute to a white cast or pilling if the formula doesn't spread easily.
  • Xanthan Gum: While you are using a clear gel type, gums can still contribute to drag and potential white cast if not fully hydrated or used at higher concentrations.
  • Emulsifier System: LeciCream, being a natural emulsifier suitable for heavier creams, might contribute to the initial appearance on the skin surface before it fully integrates.
  • High Solids/Active Load: The total percentage of active ingredients and thickeners is quite high relative to the water phase, which can make the formula less transparent upon application.

• Suggestions for Improvement:

  • Ensure Proper Hydration: Make sure your Xanthan Gum and 8D Hyaluronic Acid are fully hydrated in the water phase before combining with the oil phase. For Xanthan Gum, pre-dispersing it in glycerin or a small amount of your oil phase (like Squalane) before adding to water can help prevent clumping and ensure smooth hydration. For 8D Hyaluronic Acid, soaking it in the water phase at a low temperature as recommended can aid dissolution.
  • Optimize Thickener Level: While 0.5% Xanthan Gum is a moderate level, slightly adjusting it might impact the texture and spreadability. However, increasing it could worsen tackiness (see point 3).
  • Add a Slip Agent: Incorporating a small percentage (e.g., 0.5-2%) of a light emollient or texture enhancer can significantly improve the slip and spreadability of the cream, helping the white cast disappear more quickly. Examples include light esters or silicone alternatives.

2. Color Change Over Time (Lighter to Darker)

The change in color, particularly noticing a darker color at the bottom of the tube over time, suggests instability in the formula, likely due to settling of ingredients or potential oxidation.

• Possible Causes:

  • Ingredient Settling: Your formula contains several extracts (Rice Vitamin, Licorice Extract, Calendula Extract, HydroAlgae, Plankton extracts) which can be denser than the base cream and may settle over time if the viscosity is not sufficient to keep them suspended.
  • Oxidation: Some ingredients, especially natural extracts and oils (like Squalane, although Olive Squalane is relatively stable), can be prone to oxidation, leading to color changes. While you have ActiveProtec OX, the complex mix of ingredients might require additional stabilization.
  • Ingredient Interaction: Some ingredients might react with each other over time, causing a color shift.

• Suggestions for Improvement:

  • Increase Viscosity Slightly: A slight increase in the Xanthan Gum concentration (e.g., to 0.6-0.8%) might help improve the suspension stability of the formula, preventing denser ingredients from settling at the bottom.
  • Ensure Full Dissolution: Double-check that all powder ingredients are completely dissolved in their respective phases before emulsification. Undissolved particles can contribute to settling.
  • Review Antioxidant Protection: While ActiveProtec OX is present, consider if a broader spectrum antioxidant or a chelating agent (to bind metal ions that can catalyze oxidation) might be beneficial given the number of botanical extracts.
  • Packaging: Using opaque packaging can help protect light-sensitive ingredients from degradation and color change. Airless pumps can also reduce oxygen exposure.

3. Reducing Sticky Texture

The sticky or tacky feeling after application is often linked to the humectant system and thickeners in the formula.

• Possible Causes:

  • High Humectant Load: Your formula has a significant percentage of humectants (Glycerin, 8D Hyaluronic Acid, Natural Betaine, Sodium PCA, Sodium Lactate Plus, MOIST72). While these are excellent for hydration, high total levels can result in a sticky feel, especially in humid conditions. 8D Hyaluronic Acid, with its multi-molecular weights, is a major contributor to this texture.
  • Xanthan Gum: Gums, including Xanthan Gum, can impart a degree of tackiness to formulations.
  • Ratio of Humectants to Emollients: The balance between water-attracting humectants and skin-lubricating emollients (Squalane, Cerasoft, components in Skin-Barrier) is crucial for the final skin feel.

• Suggestions for Improvement:

  • Optimize Humectant Levels: Evaluate if the concentration of some humectants, particularly 8D Hyaluronic Acid, can be slightly reduced without compromising hydration benefits. Even a small reduction can sometimes improve feel.
  • Incorporate Texture Enhancers: Add ingredients specifically designed to reduce the tackiness of polymers and humectants. There are various cosmetic esters and specialized additives available for this purpose.
  • Adjust Emollient Balance: Ensure the oil phase and emollients are well-integrated into the emulsion by LeciCream. The type and amount of emollients can influence the perceived stickiness.

By carefully considering these points and making small adjustments to your formulation and manufacturing process, you should be able to significantly improve the texture and stability of your cream.