Improving Cream Texture and Whitening Efficacy with Glycolic Acid

Hello, thank you very much for understanding the team's intention. We apologize again for the misunderstanding that occurred. The team is happy to provide advice to help you achieve the desired formula and use the ingredients most effectively.

Based on the information you provided and the additional explanation about the liquid Glycolic Acid, the issue is clearer. Using Glycolic Acid 70% solution at 4-5% of the formula, which is equivalent to about 2.8-3.5% pure Glycolic Acid, to adjust the pH down to 4, can potentially affect the stability of the cream created with Light Cream Maker and may be the reason the cream thinned, requiring you to increase Light Cream Maker to 5%. This high amount of emulsifier could be one factor contributing to pilling.

The cream feeling not well-absorbed, slightly sticky, and pilling is often caused by a combination of factors, including the type and amount of thickener/emulsifier, the type and amount of ingredients in the oil phase, ingredients dissolved in the water or oil phase, and the pH of the formula.

To help you achieve a formula with better texture, faster absorption, non-stickiness, no pilling, and continued skin benefits, the team would like to provide advice based on your questions:

1. Changing from Light Cream Maker to SiliSolve Plus & Silicone Gel:

   • Yes, changing the emulsifying system can potentially help address the issues of thinning at low pH and pilling, and improve the texture. SiliSolve Plus is designed to emulsify silicones and oils into water, creating a light, non-greasy feel. Silicone Gel (Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer) is a silicone elastomer that can provide a silky, powdery feel, reduce tackiness, and help stabilize emulsions. This combination is often used to achieve a smooth, non-greasy texture that absorbs well.
   • Usage Percentage: For SiliSolve Plus, a typical usage rate is 1-3%. For Silicone Gel, it can be used from 1% up to 20% depending on the desired texture and feel. To replace Light Cream Maker 5% and achieve a lighter, less sticky feel, you could consider using SiliSolve Plus at around 2-3% and Silicone Gel at around 3-5%. However, the exact percentage will depend on the total oil/silicone phase and the desired viscosity. You may need to experiment slightly to find the perfect balance.

2. Whitening Efficacy (Tranexamic Acid 3% + Sym-White 0.5%):

   • The combination of Tranexamic Acid 3% and Sym-White 0.5% are effective whitening agents at these concentrations. However, as previously mentioned, significant and visible whitening results with these types of ingredients typically take longer than 4 weeks, often requiring at least one skin cell turnover cycle (around 1 month) or more to see noticeable improvement. The speed of results can also vary depending on individual skin type, the severity of the pigmentation, and the overall formulation (e.g., penetration, stability).
   • Adding More Whitening Agents: If you are looking for potentially faster results (while still within safe limits and realistic expectations for these types of ingredients), you could consider adding other complementary whitening agents. Some options available from our store that work through different mechanisms include Niacinamide (Vitamin B3) at 4-5%, Alpha Arbutin at 1-2%, or Vitamin C derivatives like Ascorbyl Glucoside at 2-5%. Combining ingredients that target different steps in the melanin production pathway can sometimes yield better results. However, adding more active ingredients can also increase the complexity of the formulation and potential for irritation, so it's important to consider compatibility and stability.

3. Penetration Enhancer or Chelating Agent:

   • For Tranexamic Acid and Sym-White at the mentioned concentrations, penetration enhancers are generally not strictly necessary for efficacy, although they can potentially improve delivery. Chelating agents like Disodium EDTA are often included in cosmetic formulations to bind metal ions, which can improve the stability of certain ingredients (especially those prone to oxidation) and enhance the efficacy of preservatives. While not always mandatory, adding a chelating agent (e.g., Disodium EDTA at 0.1%) can be beneficial for overall formula stability and performance, especially in water-based systems or when using ingredients sensitive to metal ions.

4. Oil Choice (Shea Butter Light Oil vs. Rosehip Oil):

   • Shea Butter Light Oil is generally known for its lighter feel compared to some other oils. Replacing Rosehip oil 2% with Shea Butter Light Oil 2% might help slightly reduce the greasy feel, but the overall texture is also heavily influenced by the emulsifier system and other oil-soluble ingredients (like Cyclomethicone). Cyclomethicone is a volatile silicone that evaporates quickly, leaving a dry, non-greasy feel. It is also an excellent solvent for many oil-soluble ingredients, including Sym-White. Using Cyclomethicone 5% is beneficial for reducing greasiness and aiding Sym-White dissolution. Whether you need an additional oil like Shea Butter Light Oil depends on the desired level of skin conditioning and moisture. If you find the current formula with Cyclomethicone 5% and Rosehip Oil 2% too heavy, switching to Shea Butter Light Oil might help, or you could even try reducing the total oil/silicone phase slightly if moisture is sufficiently provided by other ingredients.

5. Preservative (Global Guard 1.5%):

   • Yes, Global Guard at 1.5% is a suitable broad-spectrum preservative for cosmetic formulations and is effective at a pH of 4. It is recommended to always include a preservative in any water-containing formulation to prevent microbial growth, even for personal use, to ensure safety and product integrity.

In summary, the pilling and texture issues are likely related to the high concentration of emulsifier needed to stabilize the formula after adding a significant amount of acidic solution (Glycolic Acid 70%). Switching to an emulsifying system like SiliSolve Plus combined with Silicone Gel could provide a better texture and stability at low pH. For whitening, the current ingredients are effective but require more time than 4 weeks. You can consider adding other complementary whitening agents if you desire potentially faster results, keeping in mind the need for formula compatibility and stability. Including a chelating agent and a preservative like Global Guard 1.5% are good practices for formula stability and safety.

Here are the product IDs for the ingredients mentioned that are available in our store, which might be helpful for your next order:

• Light Cream Maker: 141
• SiliSolve Plus: 680
• Silicone Gel (Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer): 201
• Tranexamic Acid: 260
• Sym-White (Phenylethyl Resorcinol): 898
• Rose Hip Oil Extra Virgin Organic: 88
• Cyclomethicone (Cyclopentasiloxane): 171
• Glycolic Acid (Powder): 660
• Shea Butter Light Oil: 669
• Global Guard: 879

We hope this detailed explanation and advice are helpful for your formulation. Please feel free to ask if you have any more questions!