Improving Eye Gel Formula: Ingredients for Fine Lines, Dark Circles, and Texture

Asked by: bf.vichi On: February 09, 2013 Product Type: Cosmetics

Question

I am developing an eye gel formula and have some questions regarding specific ingredients and their usage to address concerns like fine lines, dark circles, and under-eye bags. I am currently using Argireline (Acetyl Hexapeptide-8) and Leuphasyl (Pentapeptide-18) for fine lines.

My current formula includes:

  • Argireline (Acetyl Hexapeptide-8)
  • Leuphasyl (Pentapeptide-18)
  • Sesaflash (4-5%)
  • Niacinamide (Vitamin B3) (4% Safe-B3™)
  • Nano Hyaluronic Acid (800daltons, 2000daltons) (1%)
  • Sweet Almond Oil (20%)
  • Aloe Vera Extract (equivalent to 40% Aloe Vera)
  • Allantoin (0.4%)
  • Natural Bisabolol (1%)

I would like advice on:

  1. Improving Fine Lines: Are there more effective alternatives or additions to Argireline and Leuphasyl, such as Snap-8 (Acetyl Octapeptide-3) or DMAE (SkinTight MD™)? How should DMAE be used, especially around the sensitive eye area, considering potential irritation?
  2. Addressing Dark Circles and Under-Eye Bags: Can Regu-Age (2-5%) be added to the formula to target these concerns? Are there any compatibility issues with other ingredients, particularly proteins?
  3. Optimizing Ingredient Usage: Is the percentage of Sesaflash (4-5%) too high if the tightening sensation is uncomfortable? Can Niacinamide (4%) be increased up to 10% for enhanced benefits? Is the usage rate of Nano Hyaluronic Acid (1%) appropriate for cosmetic applications, or should it be adjusted?
  4. Ingredient and Product Availability: Are Eyeseryl and Haloxyl available for purchase? When will the pH meter be back in stock?
  5. General Information: What is the recommended usage rate for Trimethylglycine (Natural Betaine) in formulas, including those with irritating ingredients like Salicylic Acid or general gel formulas? What is the status of the free e-book on cosmetic formulation?

Additionally, I would like to suggest highlighting new products on the website homepage for easier discovery.

Answer

Formulation Advice and Ingredient Information

Here is information regarding your questions about formulation and ingredients:

Trimethylglycine (Natural Betaine) Usage

Based on the previous discussion, Trimethylglycine (Natural Betaine) can be used at a rate of up to 10% in both formulas containing irritating ingredients like Salicylic Acid (to help reduce irritation) and in general gel formulas that are less irritating. It is highly water-soluble and does not significantly affect the texture.

pH Meter and E-book Availability

The pH meter is offered at a special price for members to encourage DIY cosmetic formulation. The company is planning to release a free e-book on cosmetic formulation in the future. There is no specific date available yet for when the pH meter will be back in stock.

Eyeseryl and Haloxyl Availability

Based on the information in this conversation thread, there is no update on the availability of Eyeseryl and Haloxyl.

Improving Your Eye Gel Formula

Your current eye gel formula is quite comprehensive. Let's look at your concerns and potential adjustments:

  • Fine Lines: You are currently using Argireline (Acetyl Hexapeptide-8) and Leuphasyl (Pentapeptide-18). For stubborn fine lines, upgrading Argireline to Snap-8 (Acetyl Octapeptide-3) was suggested as it is considered more effective for reducing muscle contraction that causes wrinkles. DMAE (SkinTight MD™) was also highly recommended for its effectiveness in improving skin firmness and reducing wrinkles, with results potentially visible within 10 days to a few weeks. However, DMAE can cause irritation, especially on thin skin like the eye area, and should be used cautiously, perhaps starting at a lower concentration (e.g., 3%) or applying it as a separate layer after your main gel. Adding irritation-reducing ingredients like Allantoin or Natural Bisabolol (which you already use) can help.

  • Dark Circles and Under-Eye Bags: You asked about adding Regu-Age. Regu-Age is specifically designed to target dark circles and puffiness around the eyes by improving microcirculation and strengthening the skin tissue. It contains proteins, and it was advised not to use it with other types of protein ingredients. Adding Regu-Age at the recommended rate (2-5%) could potentially help with these concerns.

  • Formula Components & Usage Rates:

    • Sesaflash: The tightening feeling you experience is likely from Sesaflash. If it feels too tight, you could consider reducing its percentage (4-5% is noted as a high amount).
    • Niacinamide (Vitamin B3): You are using 4%. Safe-B3™ can be used up to 10% without causing flushing, offering benefits like reducing hyperpigmentation, strengthening the skin barrier, and potentially helping with dark circles caused by poor blood flow.
    • Nano Hyaluronic Acid: You are using 1%. The recommended usage rate for Nano Hyaluronic Acid (800daltons, 2000daltons) is typically 0.1-0.5% for cosmetic applications. Using 1% might be higher than needed for optimal absorption or could affect formula viscosity depending on the specific type.
    • Sweet Almond Oil: You are using 20%. This is within the recommended range (1-100%) and is known for its moisturizing and skin-conditioning properties, suitable for the eye area.
    • Aloe Vera Extract: You are using an amount equivalent to 40% Aloe Vera. This is a good ingredient for soothing and moisturizing the skin.
    • Allantoin (0.4%) and Natural Bisabolol (1%): These are excellent additions for reducing irritation, which is especially beneficial when using active ingredients.

To address your goals, you could consider:

  1. Reducing Sesaflash if the tightening is uncomfortable.
  2. Potentially increasing Niacinamide up to 10% for enhanced benefits.
  3. Adjusting Nano Hyaluronic Acid towards the recommended 0.1-0.5% range.
  4. Adding Regu-Age (2-5%) to specifically target dark circles and puffiness.
  5. Considering Snap-8 as a potential upgrade to Argireline for fine lines.
  6. Exploring DMAE (SkinTight MD™) as a separate treatment layer for firmness and fine lines, starting with a low concentration and monitoring for irritation.

Remember to always test new formulations on a small area first.

New Product Information

Thank you for the suggestion regarding highlighting new products on the website homepage. This is valuable feedback.