Improving Facial Foam Formula for Dry Skin: Moisturizer Options
Question
I have a facial foam formula for dry skin using the following ingredients:
- Amino Wash
- BabyFoam
- Sugar Thick
- Butylene Glycol
- Sodium PCA
- Phenoxyethanol
- Galactomyces Ferment
I want to improve its moisturizing properties for dry skin. What are the best options for adding moisturizers, and how do Sodium Lactate, Trehalose, and Vitamin B5 compare for this purpose in a wash-off product? Should I keep Galactomyces Ferment in this formula?
Answer
Facial Foam Formula Review for Dry Skin
Your formula uses Amino Wash and BabyFoam as the primary cleansing agents, which are generally considered gentle surfactants suitable for facial cleansers. Sugar Thick is included as a thickener, which also helps with the texture. Butylene Glycol and Sodium PCA are included for moisture retention, and Phenoxyethanol is the preservative. Galactomyces Ferment is included as a potentially nourishing ingredient.
For dry skin, the choice of gentle surfactants like Amino Wash and BabyFoam is appropriate as they are less likely to strip the skin of its natural oils compared to harsher alternatives. The inclusion of moisturizers like Butylene Glycol and Sodium PCA is also beneficial.
Adjusting the Formula and Adding Nourishing Ingredients
Based on the discussion and the nature of wash-off products like facial cleansers, incorporating expensive active ingredients like Galactomyces Ferment at a significant percentage may not provide substantial long-term benefits because they are quickly rinsed away. As suggested in the forum, it might be more cost-effective to use such ingredients in leave-on products.
Instead, focusing on moisturizers that can help mitigate the drying effect of cleansing, even in a wash-off product, is a good approach for dry skin. The suggested alternatives – Trehalose, Sodium Lactate, and Vitamin B5 – are all good options for adding moisture.
Here's a comparison of these three ingredients for a facial cleanser for dry skin:
- Vitamin B5 (Panthenol): This ingredient is known for its humectant properties, helping the skin retain moisture. It also has soothing and anti-inflammatory benefits, which are particularly helpful for dry skin that may also be prone to redness or irritation. It supports skin barrier function and can aid in wound healing and reducing redness. Vitamin B5 is a versatile and gentle choice for dry and sensitive skin in a cleanser.
- Sodium Lactate: As part of the skin's Natural Moisturizing Factor (NMF), Sodium Lactate is effective at increasing the skin's moisture levels, making it suitable for dryness that feels rough or lacking in natural hydration. However, it can also have a mild exfoliating effect, which might not be ideal for all types of dry or sensitive skin and could potentially cause redness for some individuals.
- Trehalose: This sugar molecule also acts as a humectant, helping to hydrate the skin and protect cells from dehydration. It helps stabilize proteins and lipids in the skin barrier, improving moisture retention and reducing water loss. Trehalose is a good option for gritty dryness and provides moisture without the potential exfoliating effect associated with Sodium Lactate.
Recommendation:
For dry skin, especially if it tends to be sensitive or shows signs of redness, Vitamin B5 (Panthenol) is likely the most suitable addition to your facial foam formula. It provides good hydration and also offers soothing benefits that can help counteract any potential irritation from cleansing. You could consider replacing the Galactomyces Ferment with Vitamin B5 for a more cost-effective and potentially more beneficial approach in a wash-off product.
You could start by adding Vitamin B5 at a recommended usage rate (typically 1-3% for skin products, though up to 5% might be used if stickiness is managed) while potentially reducing or removing the Galactomyces Ferment. The percentages of other ingredients like the surfactants (Amino Wash, BabyFoam) and thickener (Sugar Thick) seem reasonable for achieving a medium foam and desired texture, but you can adjust them slightly based on your preference during formulation trials.
Remember to always perform small test batches when adjusting a formula to ensure stability, desired texture, and performance.
Related Products Mentioned
Sodium Lactate (60% Liquid, Natural)
Phenoxyethanol (Extra Pure)
Sodium PCA 50%
TreMoisture™ (Trehalose)