Improving Your Formula for Pores, Wrinkles, and Absorption

To address clogged pores, enlarged pores, enhance anti-wrinkle effects, and improve skin absorption in your formula, you can consider adding the following ingredients:

For Clogged Pores and Enlarged Pores

Beta Hydroxy Acid (BHA), specifically Salicylic Acid, is highly effective for exfoliating inside pores, helping to clear clogged pores and reduce their appearance. There are different forms of Salicylic Acid available:

• Salicylic Acid: The standard powder form. It is not water-soluble and typically needs to be dissolved in solvents like Propylene Glycol or Butylene Glycol. FDA usage limit is up to 2% for leave-on skin products.
• SalicSoft® (Betaine Salicylate): A gentler, water-soluble alternative to Salicylic Acid. It is a combination of Betaine and Salicylic Acid, offering exfoliation with reduced irritation and added moisturizing properties. It requires pH adjustment (3.8-4.2) with Triethanolamine to dissolve completely in water. FDA allows up to 4% (equivalent to 2% active Salicylic Acid).
• ActiveRelease™ Salicylic Acid: A water-soluble powder form that uses encapsulation (with Cyclodextrin) for timed-release into the skin, offering gentleness and sustained action. It can be dissolved directly in the water phase. FDA allows up to 5% (equivalent to 2% active Salicylic Acid).

Choose the type of Salicylic Acid based on your formula's base (water or oil), desired irritation level, and ease of incorporation.

For Enhanced Anti-Wrinkle Effect

Safe-B3™ (Vitamin B3, Niacinamide) is a versatile ingredient that helps reduce wrinkles by stimulating collagen and ceramide production. It also helps reduce redness, hyperpigmentation, strengthens the skin barrier, and can control oiliness, making it suitable for acne-prone skin often associated with clogged pores. Safe-B3™ is a high-purity form that can be used up to 10% without causing flushing. It is water-soluble and can be added to the water phase.

For Improved Skin Absorption

Ethoxydiglycol acts as a solvent and an effective carrier (penetration enhancer) to help deliver active ingredients deeper into the skin, thereby increasing their effectiveness, including anti-wrinkle agents. It is soluble in water, ethanol, glycols, and some oils. You should check the latest FDA regulations for usage limits, which vary depending on the product type (leave-on, rinse-off, hair color).

How to Incorporate

• Salicylic Acid (BHA): Add the chosen type at the appropriate stage based on its solubility. For standard Salicylic Acid, dissolve in a suitable solvent first. For water-soluble types like SalicSoft® or ActiveRelease™, add to the water phase, adjusting pH if necessary for SalicSoft®. Follow recommended usage rates (up to 2% active Salicylic Acid).
• Safe-B3™ (Niacinamide): Add to the water phase. It is heat resistant but avoid prolonged heating. Optimal pH range is 4.0-7.0. Use at 1-10% (5% is recommended, Safe-B3™ can go up to 10%).
• Ethoxydiglycol: Mix with the substance to be dissolved or add to the appropriate phase depending on your formula. Use within regulatory limits.

Remember to check the compatibility of these ingredients with your existing formula components and adjust the overall formulation as needed. Always start with lower concentrations and test for skin sensitivity.