Improving Gel Texture and Silicone Volatility Clarification

Asked by: chayapop18909 On: March 18, 2018 Product Type: Cosmetics

Question

I have a gel formulation containing Hydroxyethyl Cellulose, Encapsulated Salicylic Acid (Liquid, Timed-Release), Niacinamide, Green Tea Extract, Panthenol, Glycerin, Sodium PCA, and Phenoxyethanol.

When applied to the skin, although it spreads easily, it leaves a significant stickiness that lasts for a long time.

I was considering adding ingredients from the following groups to improve the texture:

  1. Texture enhancers / Skin feel modifiers (e.g., Silica)
  2. Silicones (e.g., Dimethicone)
  3. Emollients (ESTER type, e.g., Neopentyl Glycol Diheptanoate)

Could you advise on the suitability of these ingredients for my water-based gel formula to reduce stickiness?

Additionally, I have a question regarding conflicting information about the volatility of Dimethicone (Very Light, Low-Odor):

The product description for Dimethicone (Very Light, Low-Odor) states it is "very light, similar to Cyclomethicone but does not evaporate". However, a comparison of volatility lists the evaporation order from slowest to fastest as "Cyclomethicone, Dimethicone Very Light, Trisiloxane, Dimethicone 1Secs".

Why is Cyclomethicone listed as evaporating slower than Dimethicone (Very Light) when Dimethicone is described as not evaporating like Cyclomethicone?

Answer

Improving Your Acne Gel Formula Texture

You have a working acne gel formula containing Hydroxyethyl Cellulose, Encapsulated Salicylic Acid, Niacinamide, Green Tea Extract, Panthenol, Glycerin, Sodium PCA, and Phenoxyethanol. While effective for acne, it leaves a sticky residue. This stickiness is likely due to the Encapsulated Salicylic Acid.

To improve the skin feel and reduce stickiness in your water-based gel formula, adding a powder emollient is recommended.

  • Suitable Ingredients: Powder emollients like MatteSilica 5™ or SelectSorb™ (High Oil Absorption PMMA) are good options. These powders can absorb excess oil and moisture, providing a smoother, less sticky finish.
  • Unsuitable Ingredients: Liquid silicones (like Dimethicone) and ester emollients (like Neopentyl Glycol Diheptanoate) are generally not compatible with your water-based gel formula because they are oil-soluble and your formula lacks an emulsifier to blend oil and water phases.

Add a small percentage of a suitable powder emollient like MatteSilica 5™ or SelectSorb™ to your existing gel formula to help mitigate the sticky feel.

Clarification on Silicone Volatility

You also asked about the description comparing the volatility of Dimethicone (Very Light, Low-Odor) and Cyclomethicone (Cyclopentasiloxane).

  • Dimethicone (Very Light, Low-Odor) does not evaporate.
  • Cyclomethicone (Cyclopentasiloxane) is a volatile silicone that evaporates quickly.

The comparison indicating that Dimethicone (Very Light, Low-Odor) evaporates faster than Cyclomethicone was incorrect.