Improving Loose Powder Texture and Blendability

Asked by: petchroong On: June 17, 2015 Product Type: Cosmetics

Question

My loose powder formulation feels thick and is difficult to blend. I understand that the base should primarily be Sericite Mica, not Titanium Dioxide. My current formula likely uses a high proportion of Titanium Dioxide and Zinc Oxide, and possibly too much Kaolin Clay.

What ingredients and proportions should I use to achieve a lighter, smoother texture with good slip, similar to commercially available loose powders? How do ingredients like Sericite Mica (including coated versions), Titanium Dioxide, Zinc Oxide, Kaolin Clay, Iron Oxides, Silica, and Boron Nitride affect the texture and blendability, and what are the recommended usage percentages for a loose powder formulation?

Answer

Okay, I understand the issue you're having with your loose powder feeling thick and difficult to blend. This is a common problem when the ratio of ingredients isn't balanced correctly for a smooth, lightweight powder texture.

Based on your formula and the helpful feedback you received, the main reason for the texture issue is likely the high proportion of Titanium Dioxide and Zinc Oxide relative to the Sericite Mica.

Here's a breakdown of why this happens and how to fix it:

  • Titanium Dioxide and Zinc Oxide: While excellent for coverage and UV protection, these pigments can make a powder feel heavy and cause drag if used at high percentages, especially in a loose powder where they aren't pressed or bound.
  • Kaolin Clay: Kaolin is good for oil absorption but can also contribute to a drier, less smooth feel if used in large amounts.
  • Sericite Mica: As suggested in the reply, Sericite Mica is the ideal base for loose powders. It provides a silky, smooth feel, improves slip and blendability, and acts as a lightweight filler without adding significant coverage or weight. For loose powders, a particle size of 15 microns or more is often recommended for the best slip, but coated 6 or 9 micron Sericite can also work well and provide a soft touch.

To achieve a lighter, smoother, and easier-to-blend loose powder, you need to significantly change the proportions of your ingredients, making Sericite Mica the primary component.

Recommendations for Adjusting Your Formula:

  1. Increase Sericite Mica: This should be the bulk of your powder, ideally 60-90% of the total formula. Using a coated Sericite Powder, such as Sericite Powder (6 Micron, Methicone Coated), Sericite Powder (9 Micron, Methicone Coated), Sericite Powder (9 Micron, Silane Coated), or Sericite Powder (CompactPro™, Matte, Dimethicone Coated), will greatly enhance the silky feel and blendability.
  2. Decrease Titanium Dioxide and Zinc Oxide: Reduce the combined amount of these pigments significantly. They should likely be in the range of 1-10% total, depending on the desired level of coverage and sun protection. Using coated versions like Titanium Dioxide 200nm EasyDisperse™ or Zinc Oxide 200nm EasyDisperse™ can help with dispersion and feel compared to uncoated versions.
  3. Moderate Kaolin Clay: Keep Kaolin (China Clay) at a lower percentage, perhaps 1-10%, if you need oil absorption.
  4. Adjust Iron Oxides: Use Yellow Iron Oxide and Red Iron Oxide in very small amounts (typically less than 1-2% total) just to achieve the desired skin tone match. Coated versions like Iron Oxides Yellow (Ultra-fine, Methicone-Coated) and Iron Oxides Red (Ultra-fine, Methicone-Coated) disperse better.
  5. Add Slip/Texture Enhancers: To further improve the feel and blendability, consider adding a few percent (1-5%) of ingredients known for their slip and soft-focus properties. Excellent options include:
    • Silica powders like Anti-Caking Silica or UltraBlur™ (Skin Blurring Silica).
    • Boron Nitride powders like WhiteMatte3™ (Boron Nitride 3micron) or WhiteShine6™ (Boron Nitride 6micron).
  6. Mica Powder (Shimmer): Your regular Mica Powder and Shimmer Mica can be included as desired for texture and effect, but they won't solve the fundamental issue of a heavy base. Coated Mica Powder (20 Micron, Methicone Coated) or Mica Powder (20 Micron, Silane Coated) can offer a softer feel than uncoated versions.

In summary, the key is to make Sericite Mica the dominant ingredient in your formula and significantly reduce the percentage of Titanium Dioxide and Zinc Oxide. Adding a dedicated slip agent like Silica or Boron Nitride will also dramatically improve the texture and ease of application.