Improving Your Matte Foundation Formula

It's understandable to be looking for solutions when your formulas aren't turning out as expected, especially when staff testing isn't possible at the moment. Let's look at the ingredients and how you can adjust your formula to achieve a matte, thick, and long-lasting finish while addressing the issues you've encountered.

Addressing Issues with Your Formulas

First Formula: Lack of Matte Finish and Thickness

Your initial formula included ingredients that contribute to a lighter feel (Isododecane, Silicone Gel). While Hectorite Oil Gel and Beeswax add some thickness, the overall balance may have resulted in a less matte or glossy finish.

The staff's suggestion to increase MatteSilica and add Oil-Fix W is a good strategy.

• MatteSilica is designed to absorb oil and provide a matte look. Increasing its amount can help reduce shine.
• Oil-Fix W thickens oil and silicone phases and also helps improve the matte texture and reduce stickiness. It can significantly increase the viscosity.

To improve this formula, consider:

• Increasing the percentage of MatteSilica (staying within recommended usage rates).
• Adding Oil-Fix W to increase thickness and enhance the matte finish.

Second Formula: Powder Dispersion and Hard Film

In the second formula, you faced two main issues: powders not dispersing evenly and the film feeling too hard on the lips.

• Powder Dispersion: Getting powders like Silk Sericite Powder and Titanium Dioxide to disperse perfectly in oil can be tricky, especially at higher levels. This is likely why you saw white spots. Thorough mixing is key. Oil-Fix W is also noted to help with pigment dispersion, so including it might help the powders blend more smoothly.
• Hard Film: You correctly identified that Oil Film (Long-Wear) felt too hard. Its description confirms it forms a hard film, which is better suited for areas like eyeliners than the flexible skin of the lips. For a softer, more comfortable film, Silicone Film (Medium-Wear, Soft) is a more appropriate choice as it's designed to provide a soft, natural-feeling film.

To improve the second formula:

• Focus on ensuring powders are fully dispersed in the oil phase using thorough mixing.
• Consider using Oil-Fix W to aid in powder dispersion.
• Replace Oil Film (Long-Wear) with Silicone Film (Medium-Wear, Soft) for a softer, more comfortable feel, especially if applying to lips or areas that flex.

Achieving a Matte, Thick, and Long-Lasting Texture

To create a foundation with the desired properties, focus on the following ingredient types:

• Oil Absorbers: Ingredients like MatteSilica and Silk Sericite Powder are essential for controlling shine and providing a matte finish.
• Thickeners/Gellants: Hectorite Gel and Oil-Fix W can effectively thicken the oil phase and help suspend solid particles, contributing to a thicker texture. Natural White Beeswax also adds thickness and structure.
• Film Formers: For long wear, a film former is necessary. Choose one that provides the desired balance of longevity and comfort. Silicone Film (Medium-Wear, Soft) offers a good balance for face and lip products.

By carefully adjusting the ratios of these components and ensuring proper mixing techniques, you can formulate a foundation that is matte, thick, and long-lasting.