Improving Lipstick Coverage and Texture

You've successfully created a matte finish by adding MatteSilica and matte Mica to your lipstick formula. To achieve better coverage and a denser texture, similar to MAC matte lipsticks, you'll need to adjust the structural components of your formula, primarily the waxes.

MAC matte lipsticks typically use a blend of waxes and emollients to create their characteristic texture and payoff. Key ingredients often include:

• Waxes: Ozokerite Wax, Microcrystalline Wax, and Paraffin (Mineral Oil). These waxes provide the solid structure of the lipstick, contribute to its hardness, and significantly impact the coverage or 'payoff' of the color on the lips. Increasing the proportion of these waxes in your formula can help build a denser texture and improve coverage.
• Oils and Emollients: Ingredients like Octyldodecanol, Castor Oil, Tricaprylyl Citrate, Isononyl Isononanoate, Phenyl Trimethicone, and Capric Triglyceride help with spreadability, feel, and pigment dispersion. While important, the wax ratio is usually the primary factor for density and coverage.
• Fillers: Silica and Mica, which you are already using, contribute to the matte finish and can also influence texture. Adjusting the levels of these might also play a role in fine-tuning the feel and coverage.

To make your lipstick formula denser and improve coverage, consider increasing the percentage of waxes, such as Ozokerite Wax and Microcrystalline Wax. Experimenting with the ratio of these waxes relative to your oils and emollients will be key to achieving the desired texture and payoff.

Regarding replicating the exact MAC formula and proportions, specific percentages for commercial products are proprietary and not publicly available. However, by understanding the role of the key ingredients found in their list and adjusting the ratios of similar ingredients in your own formula, particularly the waxes, you can work towards a texture and coverage that meets your goal.