Improving Pressed Powder Formula: Longevity, Water Resistance, Coverage, and Feel

Question

I have a pressed powder formula and want to improve its performance, specifically to make the powder stick better to the skin, be more waterproof/sweat resistant, increase coverage, and maintain a lightweight feel.

My current formula is:

Oil Thick™ 8%
LipidSoft™ Lite 12%
Microcrystalline Wax 4%
Isododecane 10%
Isohexadecane 22%
MatteSilica 5%
Beige Iron Oxides EasyMix™ 2%
Silk Talc Powder 27%

Total: 100%

Based on a previous recommendation, I am considering replacing 10% Isododecane with 10% Silicone Film (Medium-Wear, Soft) to improve longevity and water resistance.

What adjustments should I make to this formula to achieve better longevity, water/sweat resistance, coverage, and a lightweight feel?

MySkinRecipes Expert · Accepted Answer

Pressed Powder Formula Improvement

You are looking to enhance your pressed powder formula for better longevity, water/sweat resistance, coverage, and a lightweight feel.

Based on the previous recommendation, replacing 10% of Isododecane with 10% Silicone Film (Medium-Wear, Soft) is a good step to improve longevity and water resistance. Silicone Film helps create a durable film on the skin, making the powder more resistant to water and touch.

Here is the adjusted formula incorporating this change:

Oil Thick™ 8%
LipidSoft™ Lite 12%
Microcrystalline Wax 4%
Isododecane 10%
Silicone Film (Medium-Wear, Soft) 10%
Isohexadecane 22%
MatteSilica 5%
Beige Iron Oxides EasyMix™ 2%
Silk Talc Powder 27%
Total: 100%

To further address your goals:

Longevity and Water/Sweat Resistance: The addition of Silicone Film (Medium-Wear, Soft) at 10% should significantly improve these properties by forming a protective film on the skin.
Coverage: The primary pigment in your formula is Beige Iron Oxides EasyMix™. To increase coverage, you could consider slightly increasing the percentage of Beige Iron Oxides EasyMix™ or adding Titanium Dioxide. Keep in mind that increasing pigment levels can sometimes affect the texture or feel.
Lightweight Feel: Your formula already contains several lightweight emollients and solvents like LipidSoft™ Lite, Isododecane, and Isohexadecane. The powder components also play a role in the feel. Silk Talc Powder and MatteSilica contribute to the texture and slip. To potentially enhance the lightweight and smooth feel, you could consider incorporating a powder like SiliSilk™ 1.5Micron, which is known for providing a silky touch and soft-focus effect. This might involve slightly adjusting the percentages of other powders.

Adjusting cosmetic formulas often requires testing to find the perfect balance of desired properties. Start with the suggested change to add Silicone Film and then make small adjustments to pigment or powder types/percentages based on your testing results for coverage and feel.